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1. The Palmertown range, some portions of which have also received the names of Black, and Tongue mountains.

This range rises in the northern part of Saratoga Co., runs northeast through the tongue of land which separates Lake George from Lake Champlain, and finally terminates in bold and precipitous cliffs, at the shore of the latter lake, south of Ticonderoga.

2. The Kayaderosseras, or Luzerne mountains.

These are about six miles wide and seventy long, running from Montgomery Co., through Saratoga and Warren counties, along the Western side of Lake George to Ticonderoga.

The Hudson breaks through it on the line of Warren and Saratoga counties. 3. The Clinton range.

This extends from Montgomery Co. northeast, through Fulton, Hamilton, Saratoga, Warren and Essex counties, to Point Trembleau on Lake Champlain. It is the largest range of mountains lying north of the Mohawk. At its most elevated portion there are numerous distinct peaks, forming a remarkable group, known as the Adirondack. The Mohawk forces a passage through its southwestern extremity. This range divides the waters flowing into the St. Lawrence, from those flowing into the Mohawk and Hudson. Its principal peaks are Mounts Marcy, McIntyre, McMartin and Dial mountain. The first is the highest in the State, being 5467 feet above tide water.

4. The Au Sable, or Peru range.

This range commences in Montgomery Co., and, running parallel with the others through Fulton, Hamilton and Essex counties, terminates in the south part of Clinton county.

It is one hundred and sixty miles long, and higher than the preceding ranges. White Face, its loftiest peak, is 2000 feet in height.

5. The Chateaugay range.

This is the longest and highest range in the state. Commencing on the line of the Kaatsbergs, in Herkimer Co., it maintains an altitude of nearly 2000 feet through the counties of Hamilton, Franklin and Clinton; and crossing the Canada line terminates upon the Canada plains.

6. A range commencing ten or twelve miles from the northern extremity of the Chateaugay range, and trending along the slope of the St. Lawrence.

This has been little explored, and is of less extent than the last. The St. Regis, Grasse and other rivers descending into the St. Lawrence divide it into several distinct portions.

The Northern section has also two smaller ridges worthy of notice.

1. The Highlands of Black river.

This ridge extends from the sources of Black creek, west, and northwest, about sixty miles, covering much of the country between Black river on one side, and the plains north of Oneida Lake on the other. Its altitude is given at from twelve to sixteen hundred feet; and it has frequently a rolling surface upon its top of several miles in width.

2. The Hassencleaver mountain.

Hassencleaver ridge, extending from Herkimer county into Oneida, occupies the space between the Highlands and the Mohawk river. It is twenty miles long -about nine miles broad at its base and has an altitude varying from eight to nine hundred feet, with a rolling surface.

The third, or Southern section may be subdivided into two distinct portions-the Eastern and the Western.

The Eastern division has three distinct ranges of mountains. 1. The Highlands of Orange and Putnam counties, running to the northeast.

2. The Shawangunk, running in a similar direction, and skirting the valley of the Rondout.

3. The Catskill, or Kaatsberg, whose direction is northwest through the counties of Ulster, Albany and Schoharie, to the valley of the Mohawk. Those portions of this range lying in the counties of Albany and Schoharie, are called the Helderberg mountains.

The southwestern section, also called western New York, gradually rises, from the shore of Lake Ontario, till it obtains its highest elevation, in the southern tier of counties.

The first of the terraces, composing this ascent, extends from the Genesee river, near Rochester, to the falls of Niagara, at Lewistown, a distance of eighty miles, and from six to ten miles in width. It is called the Ridge Road, and is supposed once to have formed the shore of Lake Ontario. It is about three hundred feet above the surface of the Lake.

The second extends from this ridge road to the falls of the Genesee, at Nunda And Portageville, where there is another abrupt declivity of nearly 300 feet.

This surmounted, the ascent is gradual to the summit level, at a height of 1500 to 2000 feet in the southern portion of Chautauque, Cattaraugus, Allegany and Steuben counties.

These terraces, though all quite fertile, are each characterized by a difference of soil and of forest trees.

NOTE. The following table presents the names, situation and elevation of the principal summits of these different ranges. Mount Marcy, Adirondack Group, Essex county,

66

66

McIntyre,
McMartin,

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Dial Mountain or Nipple Top,

White Face,

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Mount Seward, Adirondack group, Franklin county,
Round Top, Catskill mountains, Greene county,

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Feet.

5,467

5,183

5,000

4,900

4,855

4,000

3,804

3,718

3,000

1,866

1,685

1,520

1,471

1,187

1,128

750

550

500

319

307

LAKES. New York abounds in lakes of great beauty and surrounded by the most lovely scenery.

Lake Erie, lying on the western border of the state, is the most extensive. It is 268 miles in length, and from 30 to 50 in

breadth.

Its surface is greatly elevated, being 565 feet above tide water, and 334 above Lake Ontario. Its greatest depth is 270 feet, though its mean depth does not exceed 120. Only 60 miles of its coast lie within the state, and these afford but

three good harbors, viz: Buffalo, Black Rock, and Dunkirk. The amount of its navigation, however, is very great, and rapidly increasing. During the autumnal months, it is subject to storms of great violence. Area of the lake 8030 sq. miles. NOTE. The amount of business on Lake Erie is much greater than that upon any other of our inland seas. In 1845 the amount of shipping, registered, enrolled and licensed, for the district of Buffalo alone, was about 25,000 tons; and this was but a small portion of that employed upon the lake.

In 1844 more than 40,000 tons of shipping were owned by the American ports on that lake, aside from the English shipping, and that coming from other lakes. The increase is estimated at not less than 10 per cent. per annum.

The entire lake trade of 1845 was estimated at $122,000,000, of which probably three-fourths passed over Lake Erie.

Several of the steamers (of which there are some hundreds), employed on this lake, are of more than 1000 tons burthen; and for convenience and excellence of accommodations are unrivalled.

Lake Ontario is the second in size and importance, lying upon the northwest of the State.

It is of a very regular, elliptical form, 190 miles in length, 55 in its extreme width, and about 485 in circumference.

It is in some places over 600 feet in depth, having a mean depth of 492 feet, and in every part sufficient water for the largest vessels. Its surface is 334 feet lower than that of Lake Erie, and 231 feet above the level of the Atlantic.

The commerce of Lake Ontario is extensive; and its ports open usually earlier than those of Lake Erie. Of these, the principal, lying in the state of New York, are Oswego, Sacketts Harbor, and Port Genesee or Charlotte. It is less subject to violent storms and heavy swells than Lake Erie. Its area is 5400 sq. miles.

Lake Champlain, forming a portion of the eastern boundary, is a long and narrow sheet of water, of great beauty and containing a number of fine islands. Of these, Valcour and Schuyler, besides several smaller islets, belong to New York; the others to Vermont.

Its extreme length is 134 miles; its breadth varies from 40 rods to 14 miles ; and its depth from 54 to 282 feet. In the winter it is usually entirely closed by ice for about two months. During the remainder of the year, large steamers and sloops navigate its waters, richly freighted with the produce of the counties along its shores.

Lake George, or Horicon, named by the French, Lac Sacrament, on account of the purity of its waters, lies south of Lake Champlain.

It is two or three miles in breadth and thirty-six in length. Its surface is 243 feet above tide water. It discharges itself into Lake Champlain by a descent of 150 feet. A steamboat plies upon its waters during the summer.

The lake is surrounded by hills, towering to the height of 1200 or 1500 feet. The numerous islands which stud its placid surface; the transparency of its waters, which reveals the pebbles beneath, at a depth of 40 feet; and the rich and varied scenery which surrounds it, all combine to render it one of the most delightful resorts in the state, to the invalid or the man of business.

The northern portion of the State abounds with small lakes, seldom exceeding six or eight miles in length, and two or three in breadth. Their number is probably not less than 200.

Some of these, among the Adirondack group of mountains, are greatly elevated. Avalanche lake, in Essex county, is 2900 feet, Colden lake, in the same county, 2750 feet, and Racket lake, in Hamilton county, 1731 feet above tide water.

The central portion has a chain of lakes of considerable size and importance.

They extend through the counties of Oneida, Oswego, Onondaga, Cayuga, Seneca, Yates, Ontario and Livingston; and are hardly surpassed in beautiful and picturesque scenery.

The principal lakes in this chain are Seneca, Cayuga, Oneida, Crooked and Canandaigua.

The first four are navigated by steam and canal boats. They are generally from 300 to 600 feet deep, and from 400 to 700 feet above the surface of the Atlantic. The other lakes, connected with this chain, are Onondaga, Cross, Otisco, Cazenovia, Skeneateles, Owasco, Honeoye, Canadice and Conesus.

These are all small, but are worthy of notice, for the beautiful scenery which surrounds them. Extensive salt springs abound on the shores of the Onondaga, whose waters are, notwithstanding, fresh.

The only other lakes of importance are Otsego and Canaderaga in Otsego county, and Chautauque, in Chautauque county. RIVERS. The Hudson, 320 miles in length, is the largest river lying wholly in the State, and one of the finest navigable streams in the United States. It rises among the Adirondack group of mountains, and flows almost directly South to the bay of New York. It is navigable for steamboats of the largest size, and sloops, to Troy, 160 miles from its mouth.

In the number and magnificence of its steamers, and in the extent of business done upon its waters, it is probably surpassed only by the Ohio and Mississippi rivers.

The principal branches of the Hudson are, the Hoosick on the east side, and the Mohawk on the west.

The Hoosick, rising in Berkshire county, Mass., runs northwest and west, and furnishes many fine mill seats.

The Mohawk takes its rise in Oneida and Lewis counties. It pursues at first a southerly course; then, changing to east southeast, it forms the valley of the Mohawk. Its length is about 130 miles.

The other tributaries of the Hudson are, on the east, Schroon branch, the outlet of Schroon lake; Battenkill, Kinderhook and Croton rivers; on the west, Wallkill, Rondout, Esopus, Kaaterskill and Sacandaga, besides several smaller streams.

The St. Lawrence forms the northwestern boundary of New York, for a hundred miles; and is the outlet of the great American lakes.

It conveys to the ocean a larger body of water than any other river in the world, except the Amazon. It is navigable for sloops as far as Ogdensburg, 60 miles from Lake Ontario. Below this point, the frequent rapids render navigation difficult and dangerous.

The Thousand Islands lie near its junction with Lake Ontario, a portion of which, and some others belong to the United States. This group actually exceeds 1500 in number.

The Oswego is the next in importance in the State. Its whole length is 120 miles.

Under the name of Mud creek, it rises in Ontario county, and flowing easterly receives, through the Canandaigua outlet, the waters of Canandaigua lake. Proceeding eastwardly under the name of the Clyde, it receives the waters of Seneca

and Cayuga lakes through their common outlet, and assumes the name of Seneca river. After a still farther enlargement by the waters of Onondaga lake, it takes the title of Oswego river; and suddenly curving towards the northwest, collects from the Oneida river its tribute of the waters of Oneida lake, and discharges itself into Lake Ontario. It has about 100 feet fall after assuming the name of Oswego river, and furnishes, by its constant supply of water, valuable mill privileges. Seven thousand square miles of territory are drained by its waters; and, by means of the Oswego Canal and locks, it is navigable for its whole extent.

The Allegany river, one of the sources of the Ohio, takes its rise in Allegany county, and is navigable for steamers of small draft from Olean, a distance of about 40 miles, to the state line. The Susquehanna and Delaware both take their rise in this state, and, though not navigable to any considerable extent, afford fine seats for mills.

The other principal rivers of the state are, the Niagara, which is the connecting link between Lakes Erie and Ontario, and forms the celebrated falls of the same name;

The Genesee, distinguished for its immense water power, and for being the feeder of the Genesee Valley Canal ;

It is navigable almost to Rochester, and is 145 miles in length, emptying into Lake Ontario.

The Black, the third river in size, lying wholly in the state, and also discharging its waters into Lake Ontario; it is 120 miles in length, and navigable for 40 miles.

The Chenango and the Chemung, important tributaries of the Susquehanna;

The Oswegatchie, rising in Herkimer county, the principal tributary of the St. Lawrence.

The other streams flowing into the St. Lawrence are Indian, Grasse, Racket, St. Regis and Salmon rivers.

Chazy and Saranac are the chief streams flowing into Lake Champlain.

CLIMATE OF NEW YORK.*

From the extent and diversity of its surface, it is impossible to give a general description of the climate of New York, which would apply with equal truth to each section of the state. We can only say that it is subject to great extremes of heat and cold; and that, although in the same latitude, which in Europe produces the fig, the olive and the grape, its more severe climate admits only of the culture of the hardier plants and grains.

The state, though subject to sudden and severe changes, may be considered healthy. The number of deaths to the population is not greater than in the other states; nor do malignant diseases prevail to any considerable extent.

*The facts on which this article is based have been collected from a chapter on the climate of the state in Gordon's Gazetteer; from the reports of the Regents of the University; and from a paper in the Quarterly Journal of Agriculture.

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