H.R. 8382, H.R. 9119, AND S. 7-BILLS TO PROVIDE FOR

THE ESTABLISHMENT OF THE BUFFALO NATIONAL RIVER IN THE STATE OF ARKANSAS AND FOR OTHER PURPOSES

FRIDAY, OCTOBER 29, 1971

HOUSE OF REPRESENTATIVES,

SUBCOMMITTEE ON NATIONAL PARKS AND RECREATION

OF THE COMMITTEE ON INTERIOR AND INSULAR AFFAIRS, Washington, D.C. The subcommittee met, pursuant to adjournment, at 10 a.m., in room 1324, Longworth House Office Building, Hon. Roy A. Taylor (chairman of the subcomittee) presiding.

Mr. TAYLOR. The Subcommittee on National Parks and Recreation will reconvene.

Our first witness is Mr. Herbert K. Fowler. Mr. Fowler was just getting ready to get started yesterday when we had to leave to go to the House to vote.

STATEMENT OF HERBERT K. FOWLER, ARCHITECT AND TEACHER FROM THE STATE OF ARKANSAS

Mr. FOWLER. In appearing before this subcommittee today I wish to speak as an architect and a teacher and to express my deep concern for the future of the State of Arkansas, a significant part of whose future may be determined by the action on H.R. 8382 (Hammerschmidt, Arkansas) and H.R. 9119 (Alexander, Arkansas).

As a professor of architecture I am fundamentally devoted to teaching young people about their environment: its influence on architecture, and the impact at man's works on the environment. In every course on the history of architecture and in contemporary design, environmental considerations appear inevitably as major determinants of successful architecture of all types, of all ages, of all regions. One's own region is always the best example to use, to create a new awareness of regional characteristics which have often been taken for granted or gone unnoticed. The Buffalo River region has served frequently as an area of study by my students for architectural problems involving design which evaluates and relates to the area's ecology and culture. My concern over the future of the Buffalo River has increased year by year as it has faced severe threats to its preservation as a now virtually unique area of our country. What happens to the Buffalo River in the State of Arkansas will be a strong indication of the direction our Government is willing to take in concerning itself with the long-range, nationwide development of its physical and natural resources.

The Buffalo River area is a relatively small area, but the fact that these two bills are before this subcommittee testifies to the preservation of the Buffalo as not merely a local matter. This hearing is an indication of the importance of the retention in their natural conditions of as many as feasible of the remaining and dwindling unique areas of our country before it is too late.

The Ozark Mountains have been until recently an area of rolling hills, twisting streams and rivers, precipitous limestone bluffs, and small, unspoiled, unprogressive communities. There was a strong regional character to the area. One could hear it, played on guitars and banjos on shaded porches, in the centuries-old English ballads of the "old-timey" music. One could see it in the rugged log-constructed "dog-trot" dwellings of the homesteaders, the proud, beautifully proportioned homes of the village leaders, and in the land itself. Low population density, and the low productivity of the area inhibiting agriculture and industry were part of its character.

This has changed, in the general Ozarks region, and to a great extent it is good that it has changed. Certainly the economy and the living standards of the region have improved largely due to the greatest Ozarks industry, tourism.

But what of the regional character of the Ozarks, which was the initial incentive for this industry Beaver Lake, Bull Shoals, Norfolk, Table Rock, Taneycomo, Greers Ferry and other manmade lakes now fill the valleys, inundating the streams and rivers and concealing the dramatic bluffs, their spreading fingers of water making an impressive area of blue on the tourist maps of the Ozarks, testimony to the diligence and perseverance, if not the ecology mindedness, of the Corps. of Engineers. These lakes have been instrumental in building tourism as a major industry of the area. Created by multipurpose dams, these lakes have provided a certain amount of electrical power and flood control, but have primarily developed the area as a tourist and a recreation area. Unquestionably the economy has improved, but unfortunately a great part of the area's dollar income is benefiting the local population less than that of already wealthy out-of-State investors. And at what cost to the region? The most heralded effort toward acknowledging the region's character is the galling caricature of the Ozarks, "Dogpatch," promoted by that old Ozarks native, Al Capp. But even this caricature is less offensive than the wide-open virtually unrestricted and inappropriate commercial development which is rapidly decimating the beauty of this fine recreational area, which, as previous testimony has shown, now threatens the Buffalo River shoreline as well.

This is now the neighboring environment of the Buffalo River, whose geographic remoteness, (though the area is not far from the lakes) has permitted it to exist relatively unchanged. This is, due to its isolation, one of the few remaining areas representative of the Ozarks regional character, with many features which must be preserved, which can be preserved through passage of H.R. 8382 and H.R. 9119. Certainly the natural ecology of this region must be saved as nearly as possible as it is now, an island of Ozark woodland in a sea of commercial tourism. Only through passage of these bills can it be preserved and developed properly, by careful planning and recognition of the value to both the region and the Nation.

In addition to preserving the area's ecology, other aspects of the Buffalo valley's character can be retained through these bills. The culture of the area, which has developed as an integral element of the total ecological balance, must also be recognized. The small farms and villages are a unique historic feature, perhaps unmatched in any other part of the country. Many farm and community structures have been marked for historical preservation, representing the Ozark culture in its traditional regional architecture. These last vestiges of the tradition should be preserved, as nearly as possible, through careful planning, in their historically characteristic environment.

I neither expect nor propose, that should these bills be passed by our Congress, that the Buffalo National River project leave the area totally undisturbed or return it to its condition of a hundred and fifty years ago. It must, of course, be developed for use by the people and will be visited by thousands more each year than in the past. I feel that only through passage of these bills can this be done in a way which will not destroy the character which is the basis of these bills in the first place. I would like to emphasize that that valley is of small interest in the area. This sense of interest is a key feature of its character which will soon be destroyed if left unprotected.

It is a relatively small area. The nature of the terrain further limits the areas in which the necessary buildings and road systems can be constructed. My greatest concern and hore is that in this necessary development, the recognition of the Buffalo's prime assets: its sense of remoteness, its quiet beauty, and ecological balance will be a principal consideration. The location of heavily trafficked areas, tourist accommodations, campsites, and other facilities and amenities must be planned so that the essence of the area's character is not imperiled. The architecture of new structures and new traffic systems must further try to retain something of the character of the existing roads, trails, and buildings.

The experience of the present Buffalo River State Park should serve as an example, where despite the supposedly increased awareness of environment of our time, the new structures of recent years, of concrete, plastic and glass, have, in the interest of purely minimal and shortsighted economics, been placed alongside the appropriate and harmonious structures of the thirties. Built sturdily of native stone and wood, the early park buildings were built in consideration of their environment and still, after nearly 40 years, enhance it.

People have come to the Buffalo, and will come, to experience a magnificent natural environment. We owe them at least an appropriate, harmonious balance between man's works and nature's.

This is the character of the Buffalo River area. This is what will be irretrievably lost to the country unless H.R. 8382 and H.R. 9119 are passed. I earnestly hope this committee and the Congress will support these measures and hope that this action will encourage the protection of other areas of the country which are uniquely representative of their regional traditions and culture.

In further support of these bills, this statement carries the voluntary endorsement of 14 of my colleagues in the field of architecture in Fayetteville, Ark., whose names are: Euine Fay Jones: John G. Williams; J. Palmer Boggs; Gayland B. Witherspoon; C. Murray Smart, Jr.; Elam L. Denham; Isoo Oishi; Frank L. Doughty; Mort A. Karp;

Rene Diaz; James L. Lambeth; Cyrus A. Sutherland; Richard E. Kellogg and Ernest E. Jacks. Thank you, Mr. Chairman.

Mr. TAYLOR. Thank you. It's a very fine statement. The National Park Service should make use of it if they proceed with developing the area.

As I rode up on the elevator the other day the operator asked a good question: "I can't see why they named the river in Arkansas the Buffalo River." Could you answer that question?

Mr. FOWLER. I don't know that I can, sir.

Mr. TAYLOR. I was told by the other witnesses as I came in the door that the early settlers in this section of Arkansas were from the Buffalo River area in Tennessee. In order to feel at home they brought with them the name of the river and the names of some counties and towns. Mr. JOSEPH CLARK. There were also buffalo, according to the Henry Rowe Schoolcraft.

Mr. TAYLOR. I will go that far. You say there were also buffalo herds according to whom?

Mr. CLARK. Henry Rowe Schoolcraft, who toured the area in 1819, I believe, and floated the river. He came up into the mountains with the buffalo.

Mr. TAYLOR. There were buffalo found in Arkansas at that time? Mr. CLARK. Yes; a few at least.

(Mr. Clark submitted some information on this matter which will be found in the subcommittee files.)

Mr. TAYLOR. Are there any questions of this witness?

Mr. SEBELIUS. No, sir.

Mr. TAYLOR. I thank you very much.

Mr. Robert A. Ferris?

STATEMENT OF ROBERT A. FERRIS, REPRESENTING THE TULSA, OKLA., CANOE AND CAMPING CLUB

Mr. FERRIS. Chairman Taylor and distinguished members of the subcommittee, my name is Robert A. Ferris. I live in Tulsa, Okla. You have heard from many people from Arkansas at this hearing. I will not be repetitious in describing the beauties of the Buffalo River country. I will merely say that I wholeheartedly agree.

The one point that I wish to make this morning is that many people in Oklahoma enjoy the beauties of the Buffalo River. We are within a half a day's drive in eastern Oklahoma. We have the opportunity to go to the Buffalo River on a weekend and enjoy the beauty of that area, the peace and quiet.

Many of us have been disturbed at the commercial development that has occurred and is threatened. We would like to see the Buffalo River preserved in its natural state. We feel that this area is definitely of national park quality. We feel that the preservation of the Buffalo River could best be accomplished under the supervision of the National Park Service.

On behalf of the many Oklahomans who are intensely interested in this Buffalo National River bill, I wish to add my voice in support of the bills introduced by Representatives Hammerschmidt and Alexander.

Mr. TAYLOR. Have you ridden a canoe on sections of the river?

Mr. FERRIS. Yes, sir; I have. I have also done a lot of hiking in the area. I plan to go back many times.

Mr. TAYLOR. It's a good river to float.

Mr. FERRIS. It certainly is.

Mr. TAYLOR. Thank you; we will place your statement in the record. (The statement follows.)

STATEMENT OF ROBERT A. FERRIS, TULSA, OKLAHOMA CANOE AND CAMPIng Club

Mr. Chairman and members of the subcommittee, I represent the Tulsa Canoe and Camping Club and appreciate this opportunity to speak in behalf of Representative Hammerschmidt's bill, H.R. 8382, and Representative Alexander's bill, H.R. 9119, to authorize the establishment of the Buffalo National River.

I am sure that the testimony of many other witnesses, including the presentation of the National Park Service, will describe in depth the beauty of the Buffalo River country. This testimony will leave no doubt that the scenery of the Buffalo is definitely of National Park quality. I will not elaborate on this theme but will merely state that I wholeheartedly concur.

The point I wish to make is that many people in my state of Oklahoma are intensely interested in seeing the Buffalo National River bill passed by the Congress. I live in Tulsa, which is in a metropolitan area of almost a half million people. For us it is only a four hour drive to the Buffalo. There are many other large metropolitan areas-St. Louis, Kansas City, Memphis and Dallas among them-within an easy day's drive of the Buffalo. I believe the statistics show that there are between fifteen and twenty million people who could enjoy the beauty and recreational aspects of the Buffalo River with a drive of a day or less. These people are deserving of the centrally located national park which the Buffalo National River bill would provide.

Many of my acquaintances and I drive over to the Buffalo River country at every opportunity. We find that the stream floating, fishing, hiking and nature study, completely away from the crowds and noise of the city, is wonderfully refreshing and renewing of the spirit. We are greatly disturbed at seeing the increasing commercialization of the river and the threatened destruction of much of its beauty. We feel that passage of the Buffalo National River bill at this time is the only way the river can be given the protection it deserves.

Speaking for the one hundred twenty families who are members of the Tulsa Canoe and Camping Club and for the many other Oklahomans who endorse the Buffalo National River proposal I wish to strongly urge a favorable vote on the bills introduced by Representatives Hammerschmidt and Alexander.

Mr. TAYLOR. Mr. Tommy Jenkins.

STATEMENT OF TOMMY JENKINS, CHAIRMAN OF THE OZARK SOCIETY, UNIVERSITY OF ARKANSAS CHAPTER

Mr. JENKINS. Mr. Taylor, my name is Tommy Jenkins. I am representing, as chairman, the university chapter of the Ozark Society. We are strongly in favor of the House bills 9392 and 9119. Our group, the university chapter of the Ozark Society, is a youth-oriented group, the age group approximately 18 to 25. We have had quite a bit of concern lately about areas of high environmental quality and what is happening to these areas at the present time.

We have been engaged in several local actions trying to deter people from destroying areas that have some environmental quality. We have been unsuccessful on the State level. Most of the State regulations and things of this type have been so vague and the State legislation has been a little bit slow in developing some guidelines.

We feel that the Federal legislation is about one of our last avenues in setting aside the area, such as the Buffalo River area, and keeping it for those who are concerned about the future needs of an area to