Spalding, the Douglass mill, that of James O'Neill, Nichols mill, and the one operated by Sheppard & Valentine. Of stores, the Indian trading post of Myrick & Miller represented the commercial interests of the section. There were no amusements, no sources of entertainment, and schools and churches were agencies for the amelioration of "dull days" as yet unborn.

In short, as has been aptly observed by one speaking of this period in the history of La Crosse, this vicinity was actually the jumping-off point of civilization. There were no approaches through the country, and such a thing as a railroad only sought refuge in the most lurid imaginings of the most visionary citizen. The few white settlers here possessed no neighbors in Minnesota or at points more contiguous and accessible, and the present flourishing cities of St. Paul and Minneapolis were then never thought of. The Sioux and Winnebagoes wandered at will through this portion of Wisconsin and Minnesota, with their encampments at Winona, Red Wing and in the valleys adjacent to La Crosse. As has been observed, they were a source of trouble to the settlers, between whom and the wolves and the catamounts life here was not rendered congenial if exciting.

But the wavering hours of these unsettled days have crept away into the past, the clatter and clash of discord have long since ceased. The angel of peace years ago entered unseen into the midst of their contentious experience, and, spreading her white wings over the blasts, quenched dark thoughts with her visions of light, and brought hope to hearts that were sad and oppressed.

The year drew to its close, and the happy realm of to-day, to whom indulgent heaven has given her richest bounties, began to nerve itself for the contest, and to gaze into the future with the consciousness that it held fortune out for its acceptance. The old year floated away into

past, and 1844 dawned gracefully, cheerfully upon the homes that were scattered like sentinels upon the frontier posts of this little army of civilization that bivouacked on the banks of the Mississippi at the horizon of trade in the Northwest.

With the opening of spring communication, temporarily suspended during the winter solstice, trade was resumed with the outside world, and a degree of prosperity proportioned to this accomplishment enjoyed. But it was not of the character which subsequently obtained so liberally in La Crosse. The flow of immigration to that point had not yet begun, indeed its consideration may be safely assumed was yet in the future. Indians, and the limited number of traders, with the still more limited number of those who had ventured into the country to canvass the prospects, occupied the lands, and dealt more generously with hope than the actualities of the times. As the cold retired before the genial warmth of the opening season of the year, trade began to grow brisk at the "posts" along the Mississippi, and was not entirely confined to localities distant from La Crosse. Here the traders carried on their business with a considerable degree of profit. Myrick & Miller, in addition to their commercial ventures, sowed ten acres to wheat near their store, and cultivated it with such industry and assiduity as to reap a liberal return for the investment of raw material and labor. This may be said to have been the first attempt at farming ever undertaken in the county. Since then the precedent established has been followed continuously and successfully throughout the county. Toil has been rewarded with plenteous harvests, and the foundations laid in this early day have since supported a superstructure of agricultural excellence unsurpassed by that of any other county in the State.

PIONEER HARDSHIPS.

But this excellence has been attained after years of trial and trouble, only those who were thereto subjected being even measurably able to define. The lack of the comforts of life. the distance from bases of supplies, and mills and other hardships encountered were but few of the trials suggested. Among others that were calculated to annoy and distress these pioneers was the prevalence of wild beasts of prey, which up to comparatively late years have been accustomed to appear at the most inconvenient times and places. Upon one occasion since the dawn of the decade inaugurated with 1850, Harvey E. Hubbard, afterward Postmaster, and at present a Justice of the Peace, met with a narrow escape from wolves. In those early days,

it is said, he was a man of irresistible address and appearance, and the leader of social features in the village. About this time, a family named Gear became residents of the village, and occupied a house on present Seventh street, then on the prairie. This family included a young lady upon its roster of members, and upon her Mr. Hubbard did himself the pleasure of calling. Her accomplishments and genial hospitality so fascinated the caller that he prolonged his stay far into the night, and it was not until quite late that he bade the young lady adieu, and began his return to La Crosse, at the time of which mention is now made, a thriving village. It was a lonely walk at best, but particularly so at this special time; and striking the Indian trail, he hurried along briskly in the direction of his boarding-house. While thus proceeding, he was startled by the howling of a pack of wolves in close proximity, and saw, as he looked back in the direction whence he came, the white teeth, flaming eyes and dim outlines of two huge wolves on his track. In an instant he wheeled, continues the chronicle, and swinging his hat in midair rushed toward them yelling at the top of his voice. The animals, for the moment terrified were, fled precipitately into the tall grass, and Mr. Hubbard reached home in safety, felicitating himself upon a fleetness of foot that enabled him to outstep the speed of these terrors of early days.

An incident similarly exciting is related of S. T. Smith, a pioneer of 1851. During that year, he was building a store on Front street, and while that was in progress it is related he was wont to visit the bluffs on prospecting tours. One day, while enjoying the beauty of the valleys east of the bluffs, which he was then engaged in exploring en route to State Road Cooley, his horse suddenly shifted to one side, and his surprise increased as he heard the sounds of twigs and brush cracking at the side of the road. Mr. Smith was curious to ascertain the cause of this strange behavior of his horse, and halted to ascertain the same. As he stood up in his stirrups to peer into the forest, a large black bear rose up out of the brush and grass not forty feet distant from where Mr. Smith had stopped, and growled forth notes of defiance. Bruin had been disturbed while taking his noon-day meal, and contemplated his visitor with a ferocity born of anger and natural antipathy. The latter thought it would be both discreet and conducive to his safety to forego any inclination to debate the question raised he may have indulged; and, plunging his spurs into the horse with vigor and intention, rushed out of the valley and headed for the village, at a gait that would have rivaled that of Tam O'Shanter when pursued by the witches. Arriving on Front street, he excitedly related his adventure to the interested citizens; but never sought a repetition of the experience he was there committed to.

Returning to the year 1844, it may be stated that while it required industry and activity to keep the wolf from the door, in a figurative sense, its absence in a practical sense was not altogether due to any disposition of the "beast" to be missed from the haunts of men. Far from it, especially if they were hungry. In certain seasons, their wild, plaintive yelp or bark could be heard in all directions during the night, creating intense excitement among the dogs, and apprehension among the settlers.

Smaller animals, such as panthers, lynxes, catamounts, etc., were also sufficiently numerous to occasionally be troublesome. In short, the struggles of pioneers, here as everywhere, were innumerable; the struggle was never for ease or luxury; it was a constant one for independence, often for the means of sustaining life itself.

THE FIRST MURDER.

The first murder in present La Crosse County, of which any reliable date appears, occurred during this year, the victim being Robert D. Lester, Sheriff of Crawford County. It seems that Mr. Lester had official business to dispose of on the Chippewa River in the month of May. He had proceeded thither, and having concluded the object of his visit, set out upon the return trip. This was begun under auspices that imported a safe voyage homeward, and nothing occurred to disturb such conclusions until the 21st of May. On that day, he reached a point on the Mississippi River about six miles below Reed's Landing, and twenty miles from La Crosse, near the Minnesota shore, where he met an Indian in a canoe journeying in an opposite direc

tion. After a brief colloquy, the Indian demanded that a lunch, which Mr. Lester had prepared for himself, and was stored in the boat, should be given up to him., As this was all he had, Mr. Lester very naturally declined to be made to pay tribute to the savage's appetite, and refused. The latter thereupon became angered, and landing from his canoe, following down the bank the course of Mr. Lester, and keeping abreast of that gentleman as he continued his voyage. While thus engaged, unmindful of danger, Mr. Lester was shot by the Indian and fell into the river. The report of this murderous shot, before its echo was lost in the distance, was heard by Francis La Batt or La Bathe, who was ascending the river in a canoe, followed by his noticing the inanimate remains of the assassin's victim floating in the water, whence it was recovered some weeks subsequently. Information of the tragedy was at once communicated to Col. Davenport, in command at Fort Crawford (Prairie du Chien), who sent a company of soldiers up the river to search for the murderer. After exhausting every recourse without results, and being unable to secure the object of their visit, the soldiers seized one of the chiefs, and, bearing their prize off in triumph, conveyed him to Prairie du Chien, where he was imprisoned as a hostage for the delivery to the authorities of the guilty party. Various expedients were employed to obtain his release, and every effort was made to secure the reversion of the penalty to the accused.. But these measures but determined the authorities in their action, and their decision was both final and unappealable. Finally, the tribe to which both criminal and prisoner belonged released the latter by a surrender of the former, who was, presumably, dealt with according to the law in such case made and provided.

Quite a number of citizens went up the river to search for the body, but their efforts were vain, and they returned to Prairie du Chien in default of having accomplished their sorrowful mission. Just before this tragedy it is said the steamer "Lynx" had been partially wrecked near Wabashaw Prairie, and the crew, upon being discharged, made their way down the river by other conveyance. While en route, their attention was attracted to drift-wood in one of the eddies of the river, from which a peculiarly offensive odor floated, and, upon examining the cause, unexpectedly recovered the disfigured and bloated body of the murdered Lester. It was taken to La Crosse where it was temporarily interred, and the news sent to decedent's friends in Prairie du Chien. Upon its reception, Mr. Lockhart, of that city, official successor to deceased. visited La Crosse, and having reclaimed the body, caused it to be transported to Prairie du Chien, where it was buried.

This was the commencement of "criminal annals" in La Crosse County, and the summary dealing with criminals which has since obtained dates from this precedent.

NEW ARRIVALS.

Early this year, Dr. Snow, who had previously resided at Prairie du Chien for a season, removed to La Crosse, and became an Indian trader. He prospered in his business, reaping rich rewards during his adventurous career, and also being the means of attracting to the pressent city some among those who proved among her most valued residents.

Jacob Spaulding came also in 1844. He was a pioneer lumberman on Black River, reputed as being the first to cut timber in that vicinity. He came through La Crosse as early as 1836, en route to that locality, where he cut and floated down the river the logs with which the stockade at Prairie du Chien was built. Upon coming into the settlement, he procured the house built by Mills, the Dubuque settler, or erected a shanty on Pearl street, and divided its occupation with Snow, then engaged in the Indian trade. It does not appear, however, that he made this point a residence, nor is it at all probable, as the nature of his occupation would forbid his doing so. But he was here off and on at brief intervals, and generally recognized as a

citizen of these parts.

Dr. B. Bunnell came in this year, and found temporary accommodations in the Mills House, the capacity of which it would seem depended only upon the demands made in that behalf. Dr. Bunnell was the first physician to settle in La Crosse, states Mr. Myrick. He came here from Detroit, accompanied by a wife and child, also a widowed daughter, named Van Rensselaer, who

stated to Myrick at the time that he would live to see a railroad from the lakes to the Mississippi River. About that time, Mr. Myrick, while by no means very sanguine, was confident that this prediction would be realized in the near future; yet its coming in 1858 must have anticipated the date fixed for its arrival by several years. To-day railroads connect the Gateway City with every point in the country, and to such men as those who came in about this time and wedded themselves to the work of building up La Crosse County, are these improvements in railroad communications due.

It should be stated that Dr. Bunnell sold his claim, which covered that portion of the city. comprehended between Mount Vernon and Division streets, to Peter Cameron, in 1847, and returned to New York, but his son and daughter remained, and ultimately settled in Minnesota, near Homer.

66

The year altogether witnessed more generous arrivals than those which had preceded its advent, and was attended with more gratifying concomitants. Miss Pierson, who, it will be remembered, came to La Crosse during the previous winter with Mrs. Myrick, and went thence to Illinois, was brought hither again, this time coming as the happy and, to use an expression of the times, blushing bride of H. J. B. Miller, partner of Mr. Myrick. Scoots," who was proof against the temptations of life on the frontier, proof against the charmings of a more congenial life at the East, proof against savages and settlers at La Crosse, was unable, as the sequel proved, to resist the fascinations of Miss Pierson, and yielding to arguments that proved irresistibly convincing, combined two souls, and consolidated two hearts, a proceeding which is said to have been entirely satisfactory to the parties interested, as also to others waiting for a sign to determine their own action.

THE CHARACTER OF THE SETTLERS.

Among the items of interest which began to manifest their presence this year was the character of the few who came for industry and integrity. Those who proved the first farmers in the county came in 1844, but the season was too far gone, and so from the very necessities of the case they postponed active operations until the following spring, when they opened a farm under the bluffs, between State Road and Mormon Coolies, and in course of time became prosperous and successful. The names of these enterprising men to commence the tilling of the soil as a means of livelihood first in La Crosse were John and Charles Nagle, industrious, persevering and educationally, as also by experience, not only qualified to conduct farming operations, but peculiarly so in a new country. They soon had their acres under fence and highly cultivated, and the profits accruing to them as the fruits of their constant labor and watchful care are said to have been sufficient to render them independent in time.

The precedent thus established was adopted almost immediately by new-comers, and, as a consequence, the present territory of La Crosse County was dotted with acres of cultured land, even before it was apportioned from Crawford County and became an independent constituency. As already stated, the first cereals grown in the county were produced by Myrick & Miller, but their example was rather for home products and to test the quality of the soil, yet this example has been so liberally emulated since that day, that farming throughout the county is now among the most remunerative and profitable undertakings engaged in.

THE FIRST RAFT.

In the fall of 1844, the limited number of settlers were somewhat surprised at the venture. of Myrick & Miller in floating a raft of logs from La Crosse to St. Louis. These men were engaged in every variety of business, from trading with the Indians to entertaining a traveling colporteur. Their house became the home of all who visited La Crosse, and for the first years of the city in embryo was the only hotel between Prairie du Chien and Fort Snelling. When lumbering began to be prominent in this vicinity, they engaged in the business, and carried it on with such judgment and capacity as to secure them large returns. In time, they began to

consider the feasibility and prospective returns that would attend a raft voyage to the "future great city of the West," as prejudiced residents of St. Louis are wont to fondly term their city, and this was the inaugural test, besides being the first of its kind to be made from the upper river. The craft, in the absence of data indicating a contrary result, arrived at St. Louis on time, and, it is to be hoped, gave the venturesome consignors a liberal profit.

THE FIRST POST OFFICE.

Another incident of life here at this time was the location of a post office at La Crosse, and the appointment of a Government agent to look after federal interests and deliver the mail. At that time, it was transported by courier when navigation was suspended, and, as the number of inhabitants of La Crosse began to appreciate in number, their wants and demands appreciated proportionately. Not the least convenience for which application was made was the establishment of an office, and this was done in response to petitions submitted therefor. Mr. Myrick was appointed to its care in the first instance, and remained in charge for a brief time. But his business interests refused to permit any divorce from his immediate and constant attention, besides the cares of the office, while not onerous, were annoying and a hindrance, so he resigned, and was succeeded by Maj. E. A. C. Hatch, at that time in the employ of Myrick & Miller, but. after remaining in charge until about 1847 or 1848, H. J. B. Miller became the custodian of the Government confidence. The mail facilities were unimproved as time lapsed, going and coming, it is said, by original routes and conveniences, as also with delightful irregularity. The office was at the store of Miller, but the letters he carried about in his hat or bosom, when Mrs. Miller had not them in charge. When a settler wanted to ascertain if a letter awaited his demand, he was obliged to first see "Scoots," who would canvass the contents of his hat and vest. If he failed to respond, the expectant recipient, as a final resort, appealed to Mrs. Miller, who went through the same trails followed by her husband, and not unfrequently gratified the applicant with communications from those who were indebted therefor.

When H. E. Hubbard was appointed in the place of Mr. Miller, the office was located in a small building on the east side of Front street, three doors south of State, and its interior is said to have been the fairest parallel to the old curiosity shop of Fleet street it is possible to conceive of. It was a very small affair, and the boxes consisted of half a dozen rows of pigeonholes, set up on a common pine table, behind which was the business office, littered up with promiscuous piles of papers, letters and mail bags. The "general delivery" was the strongest point about the office, and never vacant. Since those days, the number of boxes, the lack of which was then a source of infinite discord, has been increased to supply a universal demand, and the elegance of the appointments now enjoyed are sources of delight to the most fastidious.

MORMON NOTES.

This was the year in which the Mormons returned and established themselves in Mormon Cooley, with a view of founding another Mecca. They were under the leadership of Elder Lyman Wight, and erected a number of cabins preparatory to permanent settlement in this vicinity. The females are said to have numbered among them some Welsh and English girls of rare beauty, good singers and quite entertaining, but whose exclusiveness was painfully disagreeable to admiring Gentiles. They enjoyed a closer communion than any other sect which had up to that time defined its principles, and when some of the most youthful, fascinating and irresist ible of the Gentile residents extended them harmless attentions, Elder Wight protested, and the damsels were terrified into obedience.

Wight is said to have been a Mormon and a sinner of the most pronounced type; the hardest swearer and freest drinker in the vicinity; a man who combined a love for wine, women and wassail with professions of temperance as earnest as they were often ill-timed for the sake of his professions. In his cups he was not only affecting but confidential, and Dr. Bunnell recalls an incident of this peculiar characteristic which came under his observation. The Elder upon one