The Buffalo River and its environs compose the greatest assemblage of topographic and geologic features as well as natural beauty in the Central United States.

The river flows 148 miles to the White River. The elevation of the Buffalo at its source is close to 2,300 feet, and 380 feet at its confluence with the White, a fall of approximately 2,000 feet. There are immense gravel bars along the river. These bars are outstanding for campsites and picnics, as they are free of chiggers and ticks, and there is no sand to work its way into food, clothing, or bedding. No other streams in Arkansas provide the numerous spacious gravel bars that are found on the Buffalo.

Wet weather waterfalls exist along the Buffalo and its side stream. These are reminiscent of the much greater and more spectacular ones at Yosemite, which are also seasonal. The falls at Hemmed-in-Hollow, about 5 miles downriver from Ponca, drops 200 feet, more than any other waterfall between the Appalachians and the Rockies. The topographical relief here is nearly 1,300 feet, the greatest along the river. Members of the Ozark Society have had many hikes into the steep valleys of the Boston Mountain side streams, encountering all sorts of waterfalls, interesting outcrops, caves, and springs. The same strata is exposed in all, but they differ greatly from one another. The Boone limestone outcrops in all these valleys in some unique and picturesque development which is never exactly repeated.

The most spectacular of these valleys are Lost Valley and Indian Creek. Lost Valley has long been known as it is between Boxley and Ponca and is easily entered. Features are high bluffs of Bone limestone, spectacular Eden Falls, Cob Cave, a tunnel, and a clear sparkling stream. It is now a State park.

Indian Creek, a favorite of the hardy, is 812 miles downstream from Ponca and 111⁄2 miles above Camp Orr, the Boy Scout Camp. The deep gorge of Boone limestone is fantastically carved and awe inspiring. It contains a high natural bridge, weather waterfalls, and a tunnel.

Innumerable valleys and canyons have not been explored; to encompass these within the boundaries of a National River would provide unlimited opportunities for hiking and backpacking at all seasons of the year.

In connection with that, this happens to be a backpacking number. It tells of the backpacking experience of a man and wife who hiked the Upper Buffalo above where it is canoeable, so I will leave that with

you.

The bluffs along the Buffalo are innumerable and for them, the river is famous. Their vertical walls reach a maximum height of a little more than 500 feet at Big Bluff about 4 miles downriver from Ponca. Above the bluffs, the valley walls slope steeply upward for several hundred more feet adding to the inspiring sight.

Elephant Head Bluff is 4 miles above the confluence with the White. It produces an eerie effect as one approaches it from upriver. It comes into view at a distance of 11/2 miles, at first dimly, and then in gigantic proportions. The head is there, eyes, upper part of the trunk and all to make it realistic. To me, it might better be known as Buffalo Head to symbolize this great river.

Only a small percentage of people canoe the river for the sake of canoeing. My wife and I first canoed alone on the Buffalo, starting at the Ponca low water bridge in October 1961. At that time the river

was about as low as it ever gets and we walked and dragged as much as we rode. It took 3 days to get to Pruitt, but we enjoyed the solitude and had a great time photographing the bluffs, fern falls, and watching the little shikepoke who always kept a little ahead of us. I think one could enjoy backpacking the upper river when it is too low to canoe, and get to know it better. The river has something to offer at every season of the year.

The river, especially the Buffalo, is much more than just the water flowing through it.

The Buffalo River needs protection now. The era of the chain saw, defoliation chemicals, and bulldozers do more harm in 1 year than was done by the earlier inhabitants in the preceding 150 years. Due to many destructive practices, the quality of the water is deteriorating. Ten years ago we drank from the river, but now we would not attempt it.

It has taken perhaps 70 million years to develop the present topography. Although the rocks, hills, and bluffs are not as fragile as the plant and animal life, man has the means to totally ruin the landscape and tear down the bluffs, if he wishes, in a very short time. I do not think anyone is going to this extreme as there is no economic incentive for it.

I believe that the beautiful Buffalo River should be guarded against all forms of exploitation, and that its quality be protected and restored under the supervision of the National Park Service.

You will note that I have mentioned possibilities not water-oriented. which would encourage tourist interests up river when there is little water. That is hiking, for one thing, and sightseeing among the bluffs. This would allow development of many facilities outside of the boundaries of the Buffalo National River, such as motels.

I thank this committee for listening to my views and to Congressman Hammerschmidt and Congressman Alexander for their introduction of House bills 8382 and 9119.

Mr. TAYLOR. We commend you on your statement. I was interested in your statement that east of Buffalo River State Park is Blanchard Springs Caverns, which rivals Carlsbad Caverns.

Mr. CLARK. Oh, yes. That wasn't in here. If you will allow me, that points out what can be found all up and down the river, and there are actually caverns that have never been explored and there is one not far from Compton that I have been told has been explored by a few spelunkers. There is a door on it and they have it locked, but there is that possibility.

Mr. TAYLOR. We were told that there are caverns on the river. The Blanchard Springs Caverns I thought were being developed very effectively by the Forest Service.

Mr. CLARK. That is correct.

Mr. TAYLOR. The visitor center is one of the most magnificent structures I have seen in either national forest or national park. We went down through the caverns.

Incidentally, to those people who were concerned about tax loss, and I know most folks are, this should be another fine tourist attraction. Thank you for your testimony.

Mr. CLARK. Thank you.

(The statement in full follows:)

STATEMENT OF JOSEPH MARSH CLARK, EDITOR OF THE OZARK SOCIETY BULLETIN, OZARK SOCIETY, FAYETTEVILLE, ARK.

This statement favoring H.R. 8382 and H.R. 9119 is respectfully submitted. As a geologist, I am emphasizing the geology and topography of the Buffalo River area, leaving the discussion of the fauna and flora and ecology to those better qualified than I.

The Buffalo River and its environs compose the greatest assemblage of topographic and geologic features as well as natural beauty in the central United States. The river heads at the western edge of Newton County within the highest part of the Boston Mountains, a short distance west and somewhat lower than the site of the Boston firetower which is 2578 feet above sea-level. The river flows south, east, and northward toward Boxley and Ponca, well on its 148 mile journey to the White River. The elevation of the Buffalo at its source is close to 2300 feet and 380 feet at its confluence with the White, a fall of approximately 2000 feet. In cutting its course, the river penetrates sediments totaling between 1500 and 2000 feet which record a span of 150 million years of earth history from upper Ordovician into lower Pennsylvania of 270 million years ago.

The river flows out of the Boston Mountains north of Jasper onto the Springfield Plateau, which is underlain with Boone limestone, and continues until it reaches the edge of the Salem Plateau a short distance from the confluence with the White. Here the Boone is absent and Ordovician rock is at the surface. Leaving the Boston Mountains, the river cuts across the Springfield Plateau with elevations and topographic relief reduced about half. This has little effect on the height of the bluffs as they are mainly of Boone lime and underlying formations even in the Boston Mountain area. These are a succession of limes, dolomites, and sands with little shale present. The great preponderance of hard rock causes the clarity of the water.

The Boone limestone contains a large amount of chert, which with red clay, remains as residual material when the lime weathers and dissolves. The clay and chert are seen on many hillsides of the area. The clay washes away leaving the heavier chert. Chert is composed of silica and is very hard and was used by the Indians for arrowheads. It is not readily dissolved or worn away and great quantities of it form the immense gravel bars along the river. These bars are outstanding for campsites and picnics as they are free of chiggers and ticks and there is no sand to work its way into food, clothing, or bedding. No other streams in Arkansas provide the numerous and spacious gravel bars found on the Buffalo. Wet weather waterfalls exist along the Buffalo and its side streams. These are reminiscent of the much greater and more spectacular ones at Yosemite which are also seasonal. The falls at Hemmed-in-Hollow, about five miles down river from Ponca, drops 200 feet, more than any other waterfall between the Appalachians and the Rockies. The topographical relief here is nearly 1300 feet, the greatest along the river.

Members of the Ozark Society have had many hikes into the steep valleys of the Boston Mountain side streams, encountering all sorts of waterfalls, interesting outcrops, caves, and springs. The same strata is exposed in all, but they differ greatly from one another. The Boone limestone outcrops in all these valleys in some unique and picturesque development which is never exactly repeated. The most spectacular of these valleys are Lost Valley and Indian Creek. Lost Valley has long been known as it is between Boxley and Ponca and is easily entered. Features are high bluffs of Boone limestone, spectacular Eden Falls, Cob Cave, a tunnel, and a clear sparkling stream. It is now a state park.

Indian Creek, a favorite of the hardy, is 81⁄2 miles downstream from Ponca and 11⁄2 miles above Camp Orr, the Boy Scout camp. The deep gorge of Boone limestone is fantastically carved and awe inspiring. It contains a high natural bridge, wet weather waterfalls and a tunnel.

Innumerable valleys and canyons have not been explored; to encompass these within the boundaries of a National River would provide unlimited opportunities for hiking and backpacking at all seasons of the year.

Most of the caves in the area occur in the Boone limestone. Old timers tell of being led to cave openings by their hounds, hot on the trail of some animal. Some of the caves, if fully explored, might be found to extend for miles. Along the river are several well known small but picturesque caves visited by boatmen and canoeists. There are several developed caves in the area.

About 35 miles east of Buffalo River State Park is Blanchard Springs Caverns which rivals Carlsbad Cavern. It is being developed in the Sylamore Ranger

72-466-72-11

District of the Ozark National Forest for the enjoyment of the public and is expected to be opened in July 1973. The Caverns are in the Boone limestone. The western boundary of the National Forest adjoins about 10 miles of the lower Buffalo.

The bluffs along the Buffalo are innumerable and for them, the river is famous. Their vertical walls reach a maximum height of a little more than 500 feet at Big Bluff about four miles down river from Ponca. Above the bluffs, the valley walls slope steeply upward for several hundred more feet adding to the inspiring sight.

The bluffs are directly related to the many meanders of the stream. The river swings with increased velocity along the outside curve of a meander against a hillside eroding it to form a bluff. The opposite side of the river loses velocity and drops its load to form a gravel bar along the inside of the curve.

Elephant Head Bluff is four miles above the confluence with the White. It produces an eerie effect as one approaches it from up river. It comes into view at a distance of 11⁄2 miles, at first dimly, and then in gigantic proportions. The head is there, eyes, upper part of the trunk and all to make it realistic. To me, it might better be known as Buffalo Head to symbolize this great river.

Only a small percentage of people canoe the river for the sake of canoeing. My wife and I first canoed alone on the Buffalo, starting at the Ponca low water bridge in October 1961. At that time the river was about as low as it ever gets and we walked and dragged as much as we rode. It took three days to get to Pruitt, but we enjoyed the solitude and had a great time photographing the bluffs, fern falls. and watching the little "shikepoke" who always kept a little ahead of us. I think one could enjoy backpacking the upper river when it is too low to canoe, and get to know it better. The river has something to offer at every season of the year.

The Buffalo River needs protection now! The era of the chain saw, defoliation chemicals, and bulldozers do more harm in one year than was done by the earlier inhabitants in the preceding 150 years. Due to many destructive practices, the quality of the water is deteriorating. Ten years ago we drank from the river, but now we would not attempt it.

It has taken perhaps 70 million years to develop the present topography. Although the rocks, hills and bluffs are not as fragile as the plant and animal life, man has the means to totally ruin the landscape and tear down the bluffs, if he wishes, in a very short time. I do not think anyone is going to this extreme as there is no economic incentive for it.

I believe that the beautiful Buffalo River should be guarded against all forms of exploitation, and that its quality be protected and restored under the supervision of the National Park Service.

I thank this committee for listening to my views, and Congressmen Hammerschmidt and Alexander for their introduction of House Bills 8382 and 9119. Mr. TAYLOR. Mrs. Jo Wilson.

STATEMENT OF JO WILSON, FAYETTEVILLE, ARK.

Mrs. WILSON. My name is Jo Wilson. I am from Fayetteville, Ark. I work as a curriculum coordinator with a title III Federal project in the Farmington, Ark., school system.

Today I would like to speak as a mother. I have at home a 4-year-old daughter who dearly loves to go camping, hiking, and canoeing. She has been enjoying these activities with her father and I since she was about a year old.

As I am sure you are all aware, family life in this country is undergoing some stress at the present time. Many people say television is taking away the time families used to spend talking-others blame moral decay. Whatever the reasons, I am striving as a mother to avoid this stress in my own family.

If you have ever tried tent camping, you will know that this activity provides a family with ample opportunity for communication and togetherness. Now, I am not referring to driving a camper to a lake

and plugging in the lights, television, et cetera. I'm speaking of packing up the tent, sleeping bags, stove, grub box, et cetera, and canoeing to a gravel bar or driving in on a bumpy road in a 4-wheel-drive vehicle and getting away from people. It is camping in this manner that refreshes the soul and draws families together.

Rivers, such as the beautiful Buffalo River in the Ozarks, are among the last places available for such real camping experiences to take place. The Buffalo River as it now exists offers the opportunity of semiwilderness camping. It also offers terrific hiking trails such as the trail to Hemmed-in-Hollow. A walk along these trails provides a natural classroom in which my husband and I can teach our daughter to appreciate birds, lizards, trees, flowers, and all of nature.

We try to help her become aware of the tiny, but beautiful side of nature by identifying for her the wildflowers, by stopping to watch a snake as it slides gracefully across a rock or by stopping to watch a spider as it spins a lacy web. We try to help her become aware of all the different parts of her environment and help her understand how all of God's creatures can work together and live harmoniously.

Perhaps our greatest love is canoeing on this beautiful river. When we are in our canoe and floating. We all become a part of the river. There is a challenge in the rocks and the rapids, but there is solitude and peace also.

The things I have spoken of are inherent to a river that is freeflowing and upspoiled. Anyone can drive their camper on a paved road to a lake with hot and cold running water at each campsite, but it takes a special sort of person to pack a tent, sleeping bags, et cetera, and drive, hike, or canoe to find solitude on a river.

Although I am a native Arkansan my husband and I spent one entire summer living in Yellowstone National Park while my husband worked as a park naturalist. During this time we met and talked with families from all over the world who were enjoying that beautiful, special place. At that time we were bemoaning the fact that Arkansas was such a beautiful place and also has special areas, but none had been protected to share with the rest of the world. The chance is available now for this action to be taken and for families from all over the world to have the opportunity to come and visit the Buffalo River-for it is unique in all the world.

America is built on the premise of individualization and independence. Let's please leave room for this independence as our Nation develops and not have our country in such shape that people are left with no choice as to their outdoor camping experiences.

What I am asking for today, as a parent and as an American citizen, is for my child and children like her everywhere to have the opportunities for camping, hiking, and canoeing on unspoiled riverone not touched by industry or dams and yet one not raped by commercialization and development.

I strongly urge this committe to support House bills 8382 and 9119, to develop the Buffalo National River for our children's sake and for the sake of the children all over the world and for generations to come. Thank you for this opportunity, Mr. Chairman.

Mr. TAYLOR. Thank you, for a very fine statement.

I liked your expression, "solitude on the river." There is nothing I think that does produce more of a solitude than either being by