United States at such prices that the only resource open to us is either cheaper labor or increased protection. And we furthermore ask that we may have the protection of a specific duty rather than an ad valorem duty. By a specific duty the opportunity for evasion and fraud on the part of the foreign manufacturers is prevented and custom-house labors are lessened. A collar can easily be made to represent incorrect value. The usual objection to a specific duty does not apply to collars because of their comparative uniformity in price.

We desire to call your attention to the following facts peculiar to our industry:

(1) The large proportion of the cost of collars and cuffs is made up from wages paid for labor, 444 per cent. of the entire sales being disbursed to wage earners (Exhibit A).

(2) The collar industry has been developed to the greatest perfection of detail. As evidence of this we present a memoradum of the operations a collar has to go through with before completion (Exhibit B). From the best information we have been able to obtain, we believe this classification of labor does not exist in Germany, but with increased experience the Germans will naturally copy our methods as they have already copied our styles. They will then be able to produce goods still cheaper and accordingly more to our disadvantage, and our industry will then be practically ruined through inability to compete, unless we have increased protection.

(3) By Exhibit C we show the earnings in the factory of Messrs. Corliss Bros. & Co. for one week, selected at random.

(4) By Exhibit D we show the percentage cost of manufacturing for one year by Messrs. Corliss Bros. & Co.

We take these statements from the above-named firm solely because the figures had been already tabulated by them at completion of their annual inventory; and we consider them a fair average statement of the same facts for the entire industry.

(5) Exhibit E is introduced to show the confidence of the German manufacturer.

(6) Exhibits F, G, and H show our correspondence with the Treasury Department in our efforts to obtain information of the exact value of collars imported. This correspondence exemplifies the importance of a separate classification of our industry.

(7) All information obtainable is to the effect that the price paid for labor in Germany is not over one-third of the price paid for labor in Troy (see Exhibit L).

(8) Exhibit K is a form of a tariff law which we desire.

(9) The German collars now pay a duty of 35 per cent. ad valorem, and are sold in this country at 25 to 75 cents per dozen less than American collars of the same grade.

EXHIBIT A.

Total business of the collar and shirt industry of Troy, N. Y., for 1887.

Gross amount of sales.

Paid for wages...

Whole number of employés..

$9, 902, 625.49 4, 289, 299, 45

15,749 The 15 per

Percentage of wages: 44 per cent. of sales and 60 per cent. of cost. cent. of difference is expense of business, interest on investment, etc., and what profit there may be.

Pay-roll of Messrs. Corliss Bros. & Co. for the week ending July 23, 1887.

Percentage cost of manufacturing for the year ending November 1, 1887, in the factory of

Messrs. Corliss Bros. & Co.

EXHIBIT E.

German collars and cuffs.

Manufacturers of domestic collars and cuffs are howling because Wolff & Glaserfield's Berlin goods have gained such a foothold among their largest customers in the United States, and claim to be unable to compete with German goods.

That is their fault and they can't hold us responsible for it.

All we claim is that our collars and cuffs are the best made, most stylish and handsomest finished in the world, and they command the largest prices at retail. Send for samples, compare them with the best American-made goods, and you will see why our import orders for spring season are so extensive.

AD. ROSENFELD, Sole Agent in the United States, 775 Broadway, New York.

EXHIBIT F.

TROY, N. Y., January 3, 1888.

DEAR SIR: Will you kindly furnish us, for the use of the Collar and Shirt Manufacturers' Association, statistics showing the number of dozens of men's collars and cuffs imported into the port of New York during the year ending December 1, 1887; also the value thereof, and the amount of duty paid thereon. If the figures to December 1 are not yet available, please give us the latest figures for twelve consecutive months that are complete. Also please give us the same statistics for the corresponding previous twelve months.

Any attendant expense to secure this information for us will be cheerfully paid. We beg respectfully that you will speedily favor us with a reply.

Very truly yours,

DANIEL MAGONE,

Collector of the Port of New York.

Kindly address reply to C. H. Corliss.

EXHIBIT G.

CUSTOM-HOUSE, NEW YORK, COLLECTOR'S OFFICE, January 5, 1888.

SIR: I am in receipt of your communication of the 3d instant, relative to the importation of collars and cuffs at this port.

In reply I have to say that these articles are classed for statistics with other manufactures of flax, therefore I am not able to give you the information desired.

TREASURY DEPARTMENT, BUREAU OF STATISTICS,
Washington, D. C., January 6, 1888.

SIR: In response to your request of the 3d instant, I have to state that "collars and cuffs" are not enumerated in the returns made to this office by collectors of customs. Respectfully,

E. O. HOUSE, Esq.,

Troy, N. Y.

WM. F. SWITZLER,

Chief of Bureau.

EXHIBIT K.

Proposed form of tariff.

On collars and cuffs, whether for men's, women's, or children's wear, composed in whole or in part of linen, cotton, or both, 72 cents per dozen pieces, or collars and cuffs for men's, women's, or children's wear. Not to exceed three ply in thickness, not more than one ply of which shall be linen, 60 cents per dozen pieces. Not to exceed four ply in thickness, not more than two plies of which shall be linen, 72 cents per dozen pieces. Four or more plies in thickness, all of which shall be linen, 84 cents per dozen pieces. Embroidered collars and cuffs for ladies' wear, 96 cents per dozen pieces. All of which is respectfully submitted.

CHARLES H. CORLISS,
SAMUEL B. SANFORD,
EDWARD O. HOUSE,
EDGAR K. BETTS,

Committee.

EXHIBIT L.

NEW YORK, March 27, 1888.

DEAR SIR: In answer to your inquiry of 26th March, I have to reply that from information I obtained when in Berlin in November last, when I got the samples which you have, I have reason to believe that the Berlin manufacturers rely principally on the extreme low wages which they pay their operatives to keep up the competition on the goods. For instance, for wages which you pay your female help, from $5.07 to $9.28, and which averages you $7.85, they pay for the same labor from $1.25 to $4, and which averages them about $2.40. This is as at present arranged. But they have not their labor systematized as you have it; with that will come even very much lower wages.

For male labor the same proportion holds good in every way.

Very truly yours,

Mr. C. H. CORLISS,

CLIFTON BOLTON.

Troy, N. Y.

Mills bill.

Brown and bleached linens, ducks, canvas, paddings, cot bottoms, diapers, crash, huckabacks, handkerchiefs, lawns, or other manufactures of flax, jute, or hemp, or of which flax, jute, or hemp shall be the component material of chief value, not specially enumerated or provided for, 25 per centum ad valorem: Provided, That cuffs, collars, shirts, and other manufactures of wearing apparel, made in whole or in part of linen, and not otherwise provided for, and hydraulic hose, 35 per centum ad valorem. Flax, hemp, and jute yarns, 25 per centum ad valorem.

Randall bill.

On clothing, ready-made, and articles of wearing apparel of every description, composed of cotton or other vegetable fiber, made up or manufactured wholly or in part by the tailor, seamstress, or manufacturer, and not specially enumerated or provided for in this act, 40 per centum ad valorem; collars and cuffs for men, women, or children's wear, made from cloth composed of linen or cotton or both (and not embroidered in any manner*), 30 cents per dozen pieces and 25 per centum ad valorem.

*This clause might work to our detriment. This would be the end of embroidery; to evade this clause would cost almost nothing.

TARLATANS, MULLS, AND CRINOLINES.

STATEMENT OF CERTAIN MANUFACTURING COMPANIES.

GENTLEMEN: We, the Irving Manufacturing Company of New Brighton, Staten Island, N. Y.; R. and H. Adams, Paterson, N. J., Birmingham, Conn., and North Scituate, R. I.; Andrew McLean, Paterson, N. J., and New York City; Narwood Bros., of the city of Brooklyn, N. Y.; James Dawson, Brooklyn, N. Y.; James Thompson, Valley Falls, N. Y.; Carslaw & Henderson, Patchogue, Long Island, N. Y., and Isaac Palmer, of Middletown, Conn., being the only corporations, firms, and individual manufacturers in the United States and interested in and affected by a bill now before your honorable body for a revision of the tariff in regard to tarlatans, mulls, and crinolines, would respectfully submit that for the reasons hereinafter set forth no change should be made in the tariff as it now exists in so far as the same relates to or affects the goods and merchandise hereinbefore specified.

In 1883 the manufacture of tarlatans, crinolines, and mulls were in their infancy and their manufacture was limited, less than 5 per cent. of the consumption in the United States being manufactured here.

Under the tariff of 1883 the industry was protected and encouraged, so that now more than 95 per cent. of the consumption in the United States is manufactured here, and in that manufacture more than 3,000 employés are engaged, and more than four million of capital invested, but several of the mills procure the unfinished goods from mills in Fall River, Mass., and other places.

And with this large increase of production, under the tariff of 1883 all the class of goods enumerated are cheaper than they were prior to the tariff of 1883, when the consumers were compelled to rely upon imported goods.

if the object be to decrease the revenue, then the repeal of the act of 1883 (which imposes a specific duty of 4, 4, and 5 cents per square yard, and under which there has been but a comparatively small revenue received, for more than 95 per cent. of the consumption is manu factured here) will increase the revenue by destroying the industry here, and place the trade in the same position as prior to 1883, permitting the 95 per cent. to be imported, to say nothing of destroying this industry, now in its infancy, closing the mills, and driving the three thousand and odd employés into other pursuits, and rendering useless the machinery now employed, and largely increasing the revenue of the Government, giving the poorly paid labor of Europe the monopoly of this industry.

The following statement and facts, verified by affidavits, conclusively show that the above statement is true:

[R. & H. Adams, New York, 16 Greene street; mills located at Paterson, N. J., Birmingham, Conn.. and North Scituate, R. I.]

Prior to the tariff bill of 1883 we employed 300 operatives in the manufacturing of tarlatan and crinoline; subsequent to the passage of the above-named bill we have employed 700 operatives in this industry.

We have a capital of $1,000,000 invested in same, and since 1883 increased our manufacturing facilities 120 per cent.

The Scituate mill as yet has not began operation, owing to the introduction of the Mills tariff bill. New machinery amounting to $30,000 has been ordered for this mill,