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visiting the ruins of the ancient Velia, the country admired by Cicero * and Horace, and the classical Cape of Palinuro, on some other opportunity. We returned to Acropoli by the same road we had passed the day before, and having taken there a hearty breakfast of maccaroni and fish, we walked on to Paestum, which we reached about three o'clock in the afternoon. We passed the rest of the day there. We made in vain an attempt to see the remains of the Port of Paestum, the sea being rough and discoloured; but we were told by people on the spot, as Bamonte had been before us, that when the water is clear, vestiges of a thick mole that ran a considerable length, are seen at a few paces from the shore, just opposite the modern coast-tower called Torre di Pesto. Near the walls of the city we stopped at a place, where a shallow excavation, made a short time before, had exposed a couche of small terra-cotta statues: there still seemed a large depôt, though many of them had been removed: they were packed together; in the course of ages, exudation of nitre and earth, introduced by water, had formed a hard cement between them, and it was difficult to separate without breaking them. We brought away three with us; they are about ten inches in height, the workmanship is ordinary, but the forms are exceedingly graceful; the figures (all we have seen) are those of females, bearing under one arm a vase of flowers, and under the other a little pig. We conceive them to be votive offerings to Ceres that were to be hung up in her temples,-as less pretty, and less delicate objects, are suspended before Saints and Madonnas in Catholic churches.

Our quarters were again at O Si Pepe's taverna, and as our behaviour on our first visit þad merited the approbation of the peasants on the spot, they all came in the evening, and sang their songs, and played the guitar and mandolino as before, not forgetting to humect their throats with as much wine as we would give them.

The following morning we walked

round to the Sele Morto, on our way back to Salerno; we threaded along macchioni, or thickets, like those we had passed on our way to Acropoli, but much thicker and of greater extent, being almost uninterrupted for four miles: a herd of buffaloes in one place, and a few cows in another, were the only objects that broke the solitude of the scene. As we advanced the sun shone down upon us in unmitigated splendour; all around us was warmth, and odour, and silence, except when a startled snake or a lizard retreated through the brake, or a bird sprang up on rushing wing.

Shortly after emerging from this wood, we reached the reedy banks of the Sele Morto, a brackish stagnant lake, which approaches very near to the sea. Our guide took us to a little village a few paces from the sea-shore, consisting of a few straw cabins, the houses of fishermen and herdsmen, and a guarda-costa tower. We have seldom seen more strange looking habitations; they are conical in shape, the frame-work is made of rough wood, and the bottom is defended from a sudden influx of water, by a deep circular trench, and a low mud wall.

The hut we entered was that of the most important character of the place, one of the King's Guardie caccia, and moreover a tavernaro when opportunities offered: the interior presented a curious picture; there was a fire-place in the middle dug in the floor, at which a woman was broiling some fish; the smoke hung over her head in clouds, and gradually settling on the sides of the cabin, shewed us a fine process of black varnishing: part of the circle was occupied by a miscellaneous collection of stores, fishing-tackle, birding-nets, tools, &c. ; in another part was heaped up a store of fuel; there was a bed on one side, raised about two feet from the ground, and above it a display of various domestic utensils.

When we had breakfasted and drunk a drop of wine, per cacciare la malaria, our host took us upon the lake in a punt. As the water was disturbed by the boat, we felt at once a disagreeable smell: these ex

Tu has paternas possessiones tenebis (nescio quid enim Velienses verebantur) neque Haletem nobilem amnem relinques.-Cic. Fam. Lib. vii. Ep. 20.

halations becoming more putrid and more active in hot weather, extend their pestiferous influence to a great distance, and are so adverse to human life, that if a stranger is exposed to them, near their focus, for twenty-four hours, he rarely escapes without imbibing a mortal disease. At these dangerous seasons, the women are sent off to the mountains, whence they only descend in the middle of the day, when the air is freshened by breezes, and they take care to retire before the sun declines. Few constitutions can resist such a place, yet our host and his wife were robust, ruddy, and healthy, but they had had seven children, only one of whom survived, and he had a very sickly appearance.

The Sele Morto was originally the course of the river Silaris and the channel by which it discharged itself into the sea. The mouth of the river became choked by sand, and the Sele of Silaris found a new course; thus a slip of water about two miles long and varying in breadth, but generally narrow, was insulated by degrees, (the communication that now exists between the river and the lake is a mere ditch,) the waters became impregnated by the salt springs, they stagnated, its shores became marshy and luxuriant in rushes and weeds, wild fowls resorted thither, it nourished a quantity of capitoni (large eels) and other fish, it became at length a royal fishery and chase; and the evil, at first accidental, seems now chartered and reserved to perpetuity; fertile lands are left uncultivated, human beings perish, and the Royal table is furnished with fish and fowl perhaps some two or three times in a year!

At the end of the lake, not above three hundred paces from the sea, (whence however it is not visible, being screened by sand banks,) are seen,

under the water, considerable masses of ancient masonry, supposed by several accredited antiquaries to have been part of the Portus Alburnus ; * and here, or very near here, was certainly that resort of industry and commerce: here, where now livid pestilence breathes upon grave-like solitude, once echoed the gay shout of the mariner; here was the animating bustle of maritime trade; the spirit, the enterprize, the lifefulness of congregated, prosperous men! Alas the change! As we advanced up the lake, the water-fowl rose and flew screaming over our heads, we saw the fish darting about, and observed the enclosures of cane and wicker, where they are caught and preserved. The waters are dirty, and mostly strangled with weeds; they lie fetid and still in the solitude they have made; the rushes on the shore are very high, the myrtle thickets rise close around, beyond them are seen the lofty mountains, and high among them, Mount Alburnus, sung by Virgil; and Mount Paphlagon, in in whose side the Sele has its original source. †

We were not sorry to leave this inauspicious spot. We continued our journey along the banks of the Silaris, (which is, near the embouchure, a fine broad river flowing slowly and majestically to the sea,) until we reached the bridge we crossed on our way from Eboli to Paestum. We shall perhaps be excused for not having" attempted to explore the site of the temple of Juno Argiva;" that temple, whose foundation was so remote, that it was attributed to the Argonauts,—when it is considered in what a delightful state of uncertainty that point has been left: Strabo places it on the Lucanian, or left bank of the Silaris; and Pliny on that of Picenum, or the right bank: Cluverius inclined to Strabo, but left

* Cluverius was led astray by a name: he decisively fixes the situation of the Portus Alburnus at a spot vulgarly called Alfurno, where there are some slight ruins close to the banks of the Silaris, but this is more than three miles from the sea-shore.

The Aufidus (now Ofanto) that runs by Cannæ in Apulia, and that was tinged with Roman and Carthaginian blood, rises on the opposite part of Mount Paphlagon.

Cluv. Lib. iv. Cap. 14. In another passage however, Lib. iv. Cap. 6, he speaks with greater certainty, and fixes the site of the temple of Juno Argiva at Marcina (Vietri), that is at 20 miles from the Silaris, and on Pliny's side of the river. Mr. Eustace gives preference to the authority of Strabo, as being more circumstantial and less declamatory than Pliny. We respect Mr. Eustace, but think there is one of the faults of Pliny from which he cannot be esteemed exempt.

We had almost forgotten to mention the result of our enquiries concerning the asilo,

it undecided with his accustomed "interim rem eam in dubio relinquam necesse est:" Holstenius placed it at Gifuni on the right bank; some other writers, at Trentenara, a little town, we have mentioned, on a mountain above Capaccio; and some others, contradicting all their precursors, have given other situations for it: Plutarch, a great authority, is found in support of Strabo (vide Life of Pompey), when he mentions, as being exposed to the depredations of the pirates, the temple of Juno Argiva in Lucania: but how far from the banks of the dividing river might it be, and how far from the mouth of that river? It would be hard work to search the space to the left of the Silaris, between the sea and the mountains; and still more difficult, out of the numerous sites of ancient fabrics that might be found, to fix with preciseness where rose the contested fane.

To return to ourselves, we soon found a place whose position was no object of dispute, the taverna nuova before mentioned. We there dismissed our guide, and thought of walking on to Battapaglia, by a direct road across the plain, but the day being rather far advanced, and the country bearing no great reputation, we made a bargain with a calessiere, who chanced to be at the taverna, to take us to Salerno. We regretted this as a misfortune during the whole journey ;-the fellow was drunk, the horses were tired, the roads detestable, and we were engaged for some hours in a course of conjectures as to whether we should break down or be overturned. We arrived at Salerno about nine o'clock, having only had to repair our harness five times, to whip our horses almost to death, and at parting to kick our driver.

the tormentor of cattle mentioned by Virgil, Georg. iii. as infesting the neighbourhood of the Silaris. The country people told us, that a fly of that description was very common all over the Paestan plain, that they began to attack the cows at April and the horses on St. Vito's day. Here is what our solemn friend Bamonte says on the subject, in his Antichità Pestane; we beseech you to admire the beauty-the force-of his language: "Esistea nel bosco di Diana, giusta la descrizione di Virgilio, un insetto molesto agli armenti (oggi anche esiste quivi, e nelle adjacenze) denominato assillo da' Romani, e da' Greci estro: ha la forma di una zanzara o moscone: da questo assaliti gli animali bovini e cavallini, per deboli che siano, sì danno nelle furie, fuggone velocemente per l'aperta campagna, mugiscono, sì stropicciano per siepi e fratte, e non sì acchetano, se non se ne sono liberati. Ho veduto io una scarnata vacca, far tutti questi movimenti."

Is this, after all, any thing more than the well-known gad-fly, common to all countries, and abundant and large in warm climates, and in the neighbourhood of wood and water? Might not Virgil have found just the same insects, producing just the the same effects in the neighbourhood of Mantua, and introduced them with equal appositeness in a pastoral whose scenes were there? It does not seem to us that they can identify any place.

BULLOCK'S MEXICO.*

THE eccentric Lord Herbert of Cherbury relates the following extraordinary anecdote of himself: "In my chamber, one fair day in the summer, my casement being open towards the south, the sun shining clear, and no wind stirring,

I took my book De Veritate in my hand, and kneeling on my knees, devoutly said these words.

"O thou eternal God, author of the light which now shines upon me and giver of all inward illuminations, I do beseech thee of thine infinite

* Six Months' Residence and Travels in Mexico; containing Remarks on the Present State of New Spain, its Natural Productions, State of Society, Manufactures, Trade, Agriculture, and Antiquities, &c. with Plates and Maps. By W. Bullock, FLS. Proprietor of the late London Museum. London, Murray, 1824.

goodness to pardon a greater request than a sinner ought to make: I am not satisfied enough whether I shall publish this book De Veritate; if it be for thy glory I beseech thee give me some sign from Heaven; if not, I shall suppress it.

"I had no sooner spoken these words but a loud though yet gentle noise came from the heavens (for it was like nothing on earth) which did so comfort and cheer me, that I took my petition as granted and that I had the sign I demanded; whereupon also I resolved to print my book. This (how strange soever it may seem) I protest before the eternal God is true; neither am I any way superstitiously deceived herein, since I did not only clearly hear the noise, but in the serenest sky that ever I saw, being without all cloud, did to my thinking see the place from whence it came.'

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There are but few authors, now-adays, we apprehend, so conscientious as Lord Herbert of Cherbury. Very few gentlemen, in our times, who are about to publish, ever think of falling down on their knees, and imploring some sign" to determine them whether they should publish or not. Yet perhaps it were well that the experiment were a little oftener resorted to. Doubtless every one, like the abovesaid noble writer, would obtain the same favourable answer to his supplication: his genuflection would doubtless be rewarded by some "loud though gentle noise,” or an equivalent sign, imperceptible to all but himself. We will not so far suspect the critical sagacity of the Prince of Air as to suppose that he would not encourage a petitioner, fike Mr. Bullock for instance, with a thunderclap. But besides the power of bringing out his work with such a "Cum privilegio," as this would afford an author, did he (as he assuredly would) obtain it, another benefit might possibly result from the custom alluded to: he would endeavour to render his book as worthy of Jove's approbation as industry could make it, and would think twice before he pestered his Godship with a volume of tittle-tattle, or namby-pamby, by way of a journal" or a poem. The experiment would in this way act as a restriction; folly or loqua

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city would be either suppressed or abridged; and the public would gain by the loss. What Mr. Bullock's object could be in writing such a big book about such little things as appear to have occupied his attention, we profess our inability to conjecture; except it may have possibly been that very laudable one of puffing his own Exhibition of Mexican curiosities at the Egyptian Hall. A primer might well contain all the information his "Mexico" affords. Perhaps he thought it inconsistent with the dignity of the proprietor of the "silver-mine" at Themascaltepec to write a primer? Yes; but are we to suffer to the tune of eighteen shillings to support Mr. Bullock's importance? Sixpence would be a liberal price for the information contained in his book, and the deduction to be made for the trouble of perusing it would leave a considerable balance due to the reader. But to give thirty-six times as much as this for a book which is not worth the trouble of reading,—and to read it too,-is a species of paying both in pocket and person which presses heavily as well on our finances as our good humour. Mark this also, Reader! Even on the insupportable hypothesis that every sentence of Mr. Bullock's were as full as those of Lord Bacon, even on the rash supposition that every word of the former gentleman's were as full of wisdom as those of the latter, "Mexico" could fit into one LONDON MAGAZINE! Not to speak of that portion of the former which alone is really worth printing, and which, as we have said, might furnish a sixpenny primer at the most,-the whole effusion of Mr. Bullock's genius, the whole fruits of his peregrinations to Mexico, now taking up five hundred and forty pages, price eighteen shillings, might have been published in a single number of our Magazine, price half-a-crown! There are as many words (with, we would hope, somewhat more weight involved),-as much print in one number of our work as in Mr. Bullock's whole heavy octavo!-What occasions the difference then, in size and in price?-Why, colossal type, riverwide lines, and a "meadow of margin!" There are likewise to be sure

a few bad prints and a couple of maps. Really this literary charlatanism, this bibliopolical quackery, should be put an end to. A book without any thing to recommend it but the importunate magnificence of its printing and paper shall be thrust upon our notice, and make its way into our libraries without as much pretension to be there as a wooden one! We wish we could persuade our readers that a finely-printed book is not necessarily a finely-written one. If they will, however, persist in the opposite belief, we have done our part in endeavouring to convert them, and must only give up all further attempt in despair.

Mr. Bullock's title-page holds out a splendid board of entertainment: "Residence and Travels in Mexico, containing Remarks on the present state of New Spain, &c. &c." The latter words are a good lure to the indolent reader,-but in truth upon that part of the present state of New Spain in which we are most interested, there is not a single "Remark," good, bad, or indifferent. Our traveller it appears set out from this country in December 1822, and after remaining six months in Mexico, returns, publishes, and says not one word about the political state of the kingdom. "Think of that, Master Brook!" Why, a carrier pigeon could have done better. Though our author must be perfectly aware that one sentence on the present state of parties and party feeling in Mexico is worth a whole volume on "Calendar Stones," "Sacrificial altars," pyramids, and idols, he sedulously avoids giving vent to any such useful information. That a philosopher, like Mr. Bullock, should be so profoundly immersed in the abstract considerations of his science, so momentously engaged in taking a cast of Montezuma's Watch for instance, or in disturbing a noseless deity from its oblivious sleep beneath the foundations of a modern church, is what perhaps should be expected; but that he should not withdraw his mind, for an instant, from his darling researches, to afford us some brief knowledge of the state of national affairs in Mexico, is a phenomenon not to be accounted for. It is little short of a direct insult for

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any one to entitle his book "Mexico," or "Peru,' or "Columbia," and unceremoniously skip over every thing relating to those countries which an Englishman would give, comparatively, a fig to read of. We do not ask philosophers to be politicians, but we expect them to be good citizens. Why did not our philosopher designate his book-Six Months' Residence, &c. in Mexico, containing Remarks on all Subjects but those most interesting to the Reader?-This would have been candid, satisfactory, and fruitful of no disappointment. His volume would exactly answer its description; and though we might have blamed the author's indifference, we could not but have praised his ingenuousness. If Mr. Bullock designed his work to be so purely philosophical, he should have given it a more appropriate and undeceptive title.

We will specify a few of those "Remarks" made by our author during his sojourn in Mexico, and which he no doubt thinks must amply compensate for any deficiency of political information that may appear in his description of the "Present State of Mexico."

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First; he apprizes us of the valuable fact that shaving is 1000 per cent. dearer than in England." Let every threatening peregrinator to Mexico, therefore, study" Every man his own Barber," attentively, and be sure to carry out a set of razors, a good strop, and a box of soap, or he can no longer promise himself to be "shaved for a penny" as of yore.

Secondly; it is a remark made by our author that the office of "singing pigs to sleep" is an important one in the kingdom of New Spain, this function being performed by "boys chosen for the strength of their lungs and their taste and judgment.' Query: in how far does our philosopher think that this practice, if naturalized in Ireland, would tend to ameliorate the condition of the pigs there, and to improve the musical faculties of the pig-boys so as eventually to "soften ROCKS, and bend the knotted shilelahs" which flourish in that province together?

Thirdly; Mr. Bullock informs us that "the number of different kinds

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