It ceased as suddenly as it began, and appeared to have been concentrated almost on a single spot.

The Gariep at this period flowed in a channel 70 feet below the general level of the country; but the marks of inundation proved that its banks scarcely sufficed to confine it in wet seasons. The stream was bordered with groves of willows; and an infinite variety of birds contributed by their notes to dispel every feeling of loneliness. So striking and delightful was the contrast to the arid plains, he had recently quitted, that the author dwells with an elevated degree of enthusiasm on the beauty and magnificence of this river, and represents it as realising those pictures of classic and elegant scenery, which are created in the minds of poets. The breadth of the Gariep, in one of the narrowest places, was 930 feet; it traverses the Continent from east to west, and, for a very considerable distance upwards, receives no constant branch. It is then joined by three large rivers, the Ky Gariep or Yellow River from the north-east, the Maap or Muddy River, whose course is unknown, and the Nu Gariep, or Black River, which rises in the mountains north of Caffreland.

They crossed the Gariep, at a place called Shallow Ford, where the water was about three feet deep, and while on its bank were visited by 10 Bushmen, who received with great delight a present of tobacco. Travelling during the night, they at sun-rise reached the Asbestos mountains, and entering a defile, soon descried the Kloof, a species of outpost to Klaarwater, in a romantic situation, encircled by mountains, and consisting of 26 mat huts, and five square-built reed houses, with thatched roofs.

The substance from which the mountains in the neighbourhood derive their name, is a species of Asbestos, of a blue colour, which on being rubbed becomes like a soft cotton. The veins vary in thickness, from one-tenth to half an inch, and consequently the fibre is short, but a species is found, of which the fibre is above two inches long. It is the more remarkable, as being united with rocks of argillaceous schistus. A handsome kind of jasper and green opal are also discovered here; although the soil is good, little corn is

grown, from the aversion of the Hottentots to agricultural labours.

Resuming their journey, September 29, they on the ensuing day reached Klaarwater; and to the author's disappointment he found it to consist only of half a dozen reed cottages, and a church, shaped like a barn, and built of trees and mud. The number of Hottentot dwellings near the church amounted to about 25, and many were scattered about the valley. Within 50 miles, in different directions, were nearly a dozen outposts, and the average number of inhabitants was estimated at 780 souls. The tribe settled here derived its origin from two families of the mixed race of Hottentots, called Kok and Berends, who after acquiring a few sheep, by service in the colony, migrated to the Gariep, about 40 years before. They thus attracted the attention of the missionaries, whose establishment among the bushmen, on the Zak, broke up about 1800. The present representative heads of the families enjoy a species of patriarchal authority, which principally consists in ordering out the force of the tribe, for attack or defence. The number of their cattle is not less than 3000, their sheep are numerous, and their horses amount to 80 or 90. Their chief subsistence is derived from hunting, for which they have all the national partiality.

Having sent his oxen to pasture, Mr. Burchell made an excursion to the upper part of the Gariep, attended by one of the Klaarwater captains, whose object was to hunt the Hippopotamus. On the 24th of October they proceeded with a caravan of ten waggons, and a numerous assemblage of men, women, and children, all led by the hopes of good cheer. They reached the river a little above the confluence of the Nu Gariep, and found it considerably swelled. Ascending the stream, they passed Zout-pans drift, so named from an extensive salt lake, and finally fixed their head quarters near the confluence of the Maap. The fruits of this expedition were three Hippopotami, one of which the author had an opportunity of examining minutely; but not perhaps with the same delight as his companions, who were thus enabled to gorge themselves with their favourite dainty,

and to dry a large portion for future enjoyment. It also gave him a better insight into the habits of the bushmen, many of whom were attracted to the spot by the hopes of a feast.

Returning to Klaarwater, he now endeavoured to engage Hottentots, in order to proceed to the country of the Bachapins; but with little effect, though he at length obtained a half Briqua, named Muchunka, to act as his interpreter. Reports were again spread of a meditated attack on his party by the Caffres, and the intelligence created the utmost alarm among his attendants. He had farther the mortification to find, that the general feeling at Klaarwater was unfavourable to his expedition, particularly after it was discovered that he intended to take the route of Dr. Cowan. In the midst of this perplexity, the year 1813 drew to a close, and the favourable change produced in the face of the country, by the return of the rainy season, in spired him with fresh alacrity. little purpose, however, did he offer temptations for attendants. The missionaries evidently discouraged his plans, and not only refused to aid him with their influence, but repelled his claims, in virtue of the official order, by declaring that the settlement was independent of the colony. After all other dissuasives had failed, they did not hesitate to denounce their flock at Klaarwater, as men on whom it was unsafe to place the slightest reliance.

To

Baffled and disappointed on every side, Mr. Burchell formed the determination of proceeding directly across the country to Graff Reynet, as the nearest point of the colony, from whence he could expect to derive assistance. This plan, on being communicated to the missionaries, was no less strenuously disapproved than the former, and its utter impracticability was confidently predicted. However, he persisted in his purpose, and having hired two Hottentots at the Kloof, he decided on making the attempt, without the incumbrance of a waggon, as he calculated on reaching his destination in 10 or 12 days. From the Kloof he followed the course of the rivulet, leading through the Asbestos mountains to the Gariep. At that point he sent back Gert, with the waggon

to Klaarwater, to remain in charge of his property till his return; and, by means of a raft, and the assistance of some neighbouring Koras, he traversed the Gariep, at the same place where it had been traversed by Dr. Cowan. His party consisted of six Hottentots, a Bushman, and Ruiter, a Bachapin. They directed their course to the Kraal of Rüzo, a friendly bushman, who they knew had long meditated a journey to the southward. In their way they fell in with a river known to the Klaarwater Hottentots, by its confluence with the Gariep, a few miles below, though its bed was now nearly dry, and consisted of a line of pools, and the water was alkaline and unpalatable. They traversed a flat and open country, and were joined by Rüzo, who had with difficulty been persuaded to come. Fortunately he was accompanied by Kaabi, a captain or head of a Bushman kraal, which lay in their course, with three of his men and three women. The good will of these people was readily purchased, by a liberal present of tobacco, and the whole party proceeded with equal concord and alacrity.

The river which they had fallen in with appeared to take its course exactly in the route which they intended to pursue. They therefore kept it as their guide, passing over a plain which presented an almost unvaried surface, being generally covered with low shrubs, and at intervals a few patches of grass. At one of their stations they were visited by a party of Bushmen, who by the presence of their countrymen were encouraged into familiarity, and led them to their kraal. The hunger and wretchedness of these poor creatures was extreme; and a plentiful meal of animal food appeared to afford them inexpressible enjoyment. Still following the meanders of their friendly river, the waters of which became more abundant as they advanced, the travellers entered an extensive plain, which bore the appearance of a verdant corn field. On the 5th of March they reached the kraal of their companion, where the whole of the inhabitants vied with each other, in the testimonies of their welcome. A present of tobacco created a degree of joyous vociferation, which

the chief himself was unable to control; and the general confidence was rendered complete, when it was known, that the new visitor was of a different nation from the Dutch colonists. Finally, it was agreed, that the travellers should remain a day or two with them, to hunt the rhinoceros, four of which animals had lately been seen at a short distance.

During this sojourn, Mr. Burchell examined the kraal, which consisted of 20 huts, containing about 120 inhabitants. These dwellings were disposed in a circular form, so that the area, where they kept their cattle, was always in view. Their arms, which were placed in readiness for use, were hassagays, bows and arrows, the heads of the latter being covered with a deadly poison, prepared from plants, and mingled with the venom of serpents. The dirt, with which these Bushmen were covered, and their clotted and filthy hair, proved how disgusting human beings may become. Celibacy is unknown amongst them; the girls are invariably betrothed, when children, and several mothers were seen whose age could scarcely exceed 12 years.

Having killed two rhinocerosses, and afforded their hosts a feast no less abundant and welcome than the hippopotami had before proved to the Hottentots at the Gariep, the party resumed their journey on the 9th of March. Following the general direction of the river, they visited another Bushman kraal, where they experienced a similar welcome. From hence, being attended by an old man and a boy, they advanced to the pass called by the settlers Rhenoster Poort, where they had the satisfaction to perceive the traces of a waggon. On the 17th they passed the boundary of the colony, and observed an evident change in the geology, as well as in the botany of the country.

They soon came to the dwellings of the colonists, where they experienced a hospitable reception. On the 21st of March they crossed the Zeekoe, or Hippopotamus river, and ascended the Sneeuwberg. In the passage of this elevated region, they suffered severely from the cold, and Mr. Burchell had scarcely achieved the descent, before he was attacked with a fever, the result of his pre

ceding hardships. In a deserted hut, where he had found a shelter, he was visited by some officers of the 21st light dragoons, and Mr. Kicherer, the clergyman of Graff Reynet, and under the hospitable roof of the latter gentleman, he was treated with a degree of attention and kindness which speedily restored him to health.

At Graff Reynet his inquiries for Hottentot attendants were scarcely more successful than at Klaarwater. Such was the idea of danger attached to his journey, and such the want of labourers on the farms, that he was at length obliged to accept of five men of questionable character. Two of these had been baptised, one of whom, named Jan Van Roye, had previously been exhibited in Europe as a specimen of missionary conver sion. Juli, another of the party, redeemed the character of his countrymen, by his steadiness, attachment, and fidelity; and his services are commemorated by Mr. Burchell, with a warmth which proves their value.

Having purchased such articles as he deemed necessary, he, on the 28th of April, again directed his steps towards the Gariep. His party a mounted to fifteen men, one woman and a child, and he was provided with four horses, eight oxen, thirteen sheep, and nine dogs. At Rhenoster Poort he fell into his former track, and revisited the kraals of his Bushmen friends, whose hearts he glad dened by a distribution of tobacco. In his route, he for the first time had an opportunity of surveying the king of animals. A large lion and lioness were driven out from their haunt on the banks of the river by the dogs. The lioness speedily made her escape, but the lion came steadily forward, as if to examine the party. dogs courageously kept him at bay, but paid dear for their temerity, for two of them were instantly laid dead at his feet, by a stroke of his huge paw, so slight, that it was scarcely perceptible. Several shots were fired, and a ball passed through his side, but without discomposing his majes tic and steady attitude. At length they had the satisfaction to see him slowly retreat, and willingly desisted from offering him farther molestation.

The

On the 19th of May they once more

reached the delightful banks of the Gariep, and having passed it without essential difficulty, they, on the 24th, arrived at Klaarwater. Here, however, the travellers were coolly welcomed by the missionaries, who appeared rather to feel disappointment than satisfaction at the result of their enterprise.

Mr. Burchell immediately commenced his preparations for a further progress; but experienced innumerable mortifications from the indolence and insubordination of his Hottentots. On the 9th of June he moved to Ongelucks fountain, an outpost of Klaarwater, but it was not before the 14th that he succeeded in collecting his whole suite, which consisted of ten Hottentots, and the interpreter Muchunka. Keeping a northward direction, they on the 18th came to a singular rock, called the Shining Rock, or Sensavan, a remarkable mass rising out of the eastern side of a ridge of hills. It is the place from whence the people beyond the Gariep procure the Sibilo, a metallic powder of a bluish lustre, which stains the flesh of a dark red colour. Mixed with grease and smeared over the head and body, it constitutes the full dress of a Bachapin, and though not beautiful, may, at least, be deemed useful, in protecting the head from the fervid rays of the sun.

Proceeding onward, through a level country, covered with tall dry grass, resembling ripe corn, they, on the 28th of June, traversed the pass leading through the Kamhanni mountains, the great line of separation between the two races of Hottentots and Caffres. Their next advance was to the Kruman, a small but beautiful river, which after rising out of the earth, in a full stream, is gradually lost by evaporation, and absorption in the sands. They then crossed another extensive plain; and after pausing on the river Makkwarin, to set their waggons and baggage in order, they, on the 13th of July, made their entry into Litakun, the capital of the Bachapins, or Briquas. At this place their arrival had been expected, and awakened a strong feeling of interest and curiosity. Mr.

Burchell was received with apparent cordiality, by the chief Mattivi, as well as by his brothers and relations, and obtained permission to make such a stay as he deemed necessary for his future purposes. But he soon found that he was among a race, who were perfectly disposed to take advantage of his situation; and though he suffered no outrage, nor even ill treatment, yet he was on every side beset by selfishness and extortion. His embarrassments were aggravated, by the fears, the follies, and the insubordination of his attendants; and a much shorter stay than he meditated sufficed to convince him, that he had here reached the limit of his journey into the interior. His diary abruptly concludes with his departure from Litakun; though from his map, he appears to have made an excursion to the Karrikarri country, and to have opened a new route to Graff Reynet, from whence he returned through the districts bordering the coast, to Cape Town.

His work concludes with an account of the manners, customs, and character of the Briquas, into the detail of which we cannot enter. It is sufficient to observe, that they appear to have reached that precise boundary, which marks the division between an agricultural, a stationary, and a nomadic life. They are governed by an hereditary chief, but his authority is occasionally shared by his brothers and relations, and limited by a council of subordinate leaders. The lower classes seem to be the unpaid servants of the chief or leaders, who allow them a scanty portion of milk and meat, and leave them to find the rest of their subsistence, by digging roots or hunting. They have no external form of worship, and though they believe the existence of two superior Beings, Good and Evil, yet their attention is devoted to the latter, and their superstition is of the grossest and most degrading kind. Litakun, their capital, consists of 700 or 800 circular huts, contains a population of nearly 5000 souls, and is situated in latitude 27° 6' south, and longitude 24° 39′ east.