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NARRATIVE OF À VOYAGE FROM NEW SOUTH WALES. I EMBARKED for England on the From this time to the 17th March 4th of February, 1821, and sailed the weather was generally wet and from the heads of Port Jackson with windy, and the vessel being very a south-east wind, which continued deeply laden and uneasy, shipped more or less foul till the evening of the salt water almost constantly ; sb the 12th, when it came round to the that we were imprisoned in our canorth-west.
bins, which were necessarily darkened. On the two following days we saw This was the worst of doubling Cape flying-fish, though our latitude on Horn; for on the 28th March, the the last of them was 37° 22, which day on which we actually passed the is a higher southern parallel than longitude of it, and left the Pacific this tropical animal was perhaps ever for the Atlantic ocean, the weather seen in before. We had the wind was fine, and the ship steady; and now from the southward, and next the next day the sen was calm and from the westward, as it prevails in the sky beautiful, with Staten Island these latitudes at this season, and as in sight twelve leagues to the north, we wished it to be for the purpose looking even green. So was it fine of making an eastern passage home weather for the three following days, round Cape Horn. But the wind but on the last of these the wind came being right aft, with a heavy sea, foul. caused a great rolling of the ship. On the day we doubled Cape
On the 18th Capt. Cook's Strait Horn, we met a ship about five miles between the two islands of New Zea off: the thermometer at this time land was in sight, and we passed stood at 44°, being the lowest fall on Cape Farewell in the course of the the voyage. day, and were at night off the Bro- On the 25th came heavy rain with thers. It was calm in the night, à squally night, and the sea being and the strait being so narrow that against the wind caused we could see the land on both sides, ing and pitching of the ship. Bo the the sea was smooth and the ship deck was generally wet and our casteady in the day. The land we saw bin dark again till the 4th day of consisted of barren hills or sand. We April, when the dead lights were reobserved no signs of inhabitancy. moved for good; and the worst of These are not the fertile parts of our passage was over. New Zealand. The mountains were This week we made two Thursa even topt with sand, which we at day --in order to accommodate our first took for sow.
reckoning to that of this hemisphere, - The next day Entry Island was in having gained a revolution of the sight, and we passed through the earth, by going back to the sun strait ; and on the following day, we round the world—two first days of left New Zealand out of sight. Hav- April ; so that this being Teap-year, ing cleared the land, the sea ran I shall have lived 367 days in one high, and the ship's rolling became year, a thing which few people can heavy again.
understand, and still fewer say. If On the 21st we crossed the longi- the Emperor Titus had been up to tude of 180°, and entered the wes- this, he might have indemnified himtern hemisphere, as it may strictly self for his celebrated loss. be called, though the maps do not On the 5th day of April, the ther. divide till 20° more; but having lived mometer stood at 75o, being a change more than seven years in the eastern of 30° in a fortnight. hemisphere, one is anxious to fore- On the 12th we were so fortunate stal a change.
as to meet his Majesty's ship Tamar, On the 25th albatrosses were nu- Captain Bremer, bound from Engmerous, and on the 26th stormy pe- land to New South Wales : this was terels. On the 28th we saw eight of the only vessel we visited during the former swimming, which they the whole passage, we being bound seldom do, and on the
29th the latter from New South Wales to England, were in great variety.
and a man of war not having sailed
from England to New South Wales the harbour of Bahia ; and in the for twenty years before. An old ac- afternoon we came to anchor there. quaintance
of mine, an officer of the We found Bahia in the possession ship, boarded us, and gave us a few of the Brazilians, and the Portuguese newspapers of January and February either
expelled or hiding themselves. last, which we should not have seen The Brazilians are not such finely in New South Wales for three months made men as the negroes of this promore. Here be fruits ! first profits of vince, who are celebrated for the the voyage home!
beauty of their figures; but the The Tamar was bound to New South Americans, notwithstanding South Wales on secret service; but the diminutiveness of their forms, on my arrival in England, I found will be a great people, the secret very well known to be the intended establishment of a commer
A little body with a mighty heart. cial factory at Port Essington, a dis. The very children in the streets are covery of Capt. King's of His Majesty's singing Liberty, surveying service, on the north coast The imperial flag was hoisted on of Australia. The treaty with Hol- the fort, and flying on the ships land having shut us out of all the of war. I wish they had chosen a islands of the Indian Archipelago, into prettier mixture of colours. They which British goods are not admitted are light green and yellow, with an by the Dutch without payment of a meaning coat of arms. very high duty, our government have, I went on shore this evening, and by assisting in the formation of this called, as is the etiquette, upon the factory, anticipated any foreign oc- British consul, who lives at Vittoria, cupancy of this part of the Austra- in the upper or new town, on Cape lian coast, from whence the Malays, St. Antonio, on which is another fort. who visit it every year from Macas. This is almost entirely an English sar to fish for trepang for the China settlement, and delightfully situated, market, may be supplied with our with lanes, at least clean, if not trim, manufactured goods. It is hoped and gardens, or rather shrubberies, that the Malays will soon induce to each house, down to the sea. The Chinese emigrants to settle at Port mango, and other tropical trees, Essington, and keep up this trade in struck me with their rich leafiness, British goods. The port lies very after the barrenness and dryness of handy, not only for the Moluccas, Australian foliage. I found the white but for the Caroline and Philippine cedar, the melia azedarach, or comIslands, and even for China.
mon bead-tree of India, growing On the same day on which we met here, as well as at New South
Wales; the Tamar, we crossed the tropic of and I particularly admired the splenCapricorn; and I saw the Great dour of that species of acacia, called Bear again for the first time for more poinciana pulcherrima, or the Barthan seven years:
The lower town of Bahia, in which The northern team, the English merchants have only And great Orion's more refulgent beam,
compting-houses, is very close and disTo which around the axle of the sky The Bear revolving points his golden eye,
gusting, rather from filth and the manWho shines exalted on th' ethereal plain,
ners of the Portuguese, than from the Nor bathes his blazing forehead in the mode of building; for narrow streets main.
ensure shade, and declivity of ground
commands the sea-breeze everywhere On the 15th we met a brig ten by its nature, and would command miles off, and on the 17th another cleanliness with a very little art. standing to the south-west. These There are many British merchants were proofs of our drawing towards and shop-keepers settled here, corthe coast of Brazil ; and on the 20th responding principally with Liverthe land was in sight, the city of St. pool. They are, as they are all over Salvador in the Brazilian province of the world, the wealthiest and most Bahia, latitude 12° 59', longitude respectable people in the place, and 38° 28', according to one reckoning; in favour with all parties, royalists, 39° 21', according to another. Two imperialists, and republicans. ships were in sight, also standing for The next afternoon, I went on
shore till my ship should sail, to the city of Bahia with great diligence, enjoy the hospitality of my country- both in caderas, and on horseback. men at Vittoria; for I had no other The streets are too steep for carriages, claim to it than that of common although the hill on which the town country, but that was enough. Mrs. is built, is not 600 feet high (as the Graham, in her late Voyage to Bra- books say), but a little more than zil, repays the hospitality of the 200, teste Captain Sabine. The caEnglish at Bahia, by saying that deras, or curtained chairs, which are “ society is at a low, very low scale used as much by gentlemen as by here among the English,” and that ladies, are carried obliquely, with “ the ladies are quite of the second only one pole from the top of the rate even of colonial gentility.” chair on the shoulder of each of two Now, though there are about twenty negroes, so that each may see his English merchants here, there are way before him, and the sitter enjoy but six married English ladies, and the thorough breeze and see before one single one ; and when Mrs. Grae him too, if he chooses to open the curham was here, there was, in ex- tains. change for one of these, the Con- As it was the season of the car. sul's daughter, whom this genteel nival, and this city was once the authoress has the indelicacy to name ecclesiastical metropolis of Brazil, at full length. It does not appear we expected to witness the masquethat Mrs. Graham meant to include rading holydays of the Roman CaMiss Pin her criticism, but tholic Religion. But the revolution the number of six is too small to had left priests at a heavy discount. scatter censure harmless among; and We found the saint-cupboards in the one of those six must have been streets shut up; and the carnival was Miss P 's married sister, whom forbidden by the governor, for fear of Mrs. Graham also mentions. I can political riot. only say that I had the good fortune On Sunday the 25th, I visited the to be either more grateful or less fas- public garden in the fort of St. Peter, tidious. But I should have thought presenting a fine terrace to the sea. that a very small share of gratitude, I found the garden neglected, proand a very considerable one of fasti- bably in consequence of the late diousness, might still have left the siege of Bahia by the Brazilians. guest of Mrs. J. entirely satisfied The remains of an earthwork, thrown of her unaffected good-breeding, and up by their troops, are in the neighof the perfect politeness of such of bouring square. I copied the followher few countrywomen as I had the ing inscription from an obelisk in pleasure of meeting under her roof. the garden, commemorative of the
At our Consul's house, I saw an Prince Regent of Portugal's first Indian of Botocudo (in the interior landing here, on the emigration of of the country) who had been to the Royal Family from the mother Vienna to see the world, and was country. I wonder the Brazilians staying at the Consulate, on his way have not pulled it down. back to his own nation. He had a
Joanni large, round, cake-shaped piece of
Priore Reg. P. F. P. P. wood, inserted in a long slit in his
huc primum appulso under lip, something like the natives
xi. cal. Februar. of the Baie des Françoises on the west coast of North America, figured
Bahiæ Senatus in the Atlas to La Pérouse's Voyage;
Monumentum and a similar piece in a slit in each
posuit. ear. I have since learnt that there was a Botocudo with his wife and In the afternoon, I re-embarked, child exhibited in London in the year refreshed with oranges and limes, 1822.
(though they kept not long) and The weather favoured our little pleased with Bahia, although I did relache; and our ship completed her not find it so musical and romantic watering on the 23d of April. I had as Rio de Janeiro. To be sure, the therefore no time to visit the interior Portuguese were either away or shut of the country, to which indeed there up; and the lascivious guitar was are no roads; but I perambulated silenced by the trumpet of freedom.
A. D. MDCCCVIII.
There is a large opera house here, cabin paint, rendered the between and there was to be a performance decks, which were always wet and that night; but our countrymen did dirty, perfectly uninhabitable. Was not speak highly of Brazilian taste, it the hides of the cargo that geneer of the ripeness of the revolution rated this horrible smell, and proists for elegant amusements.
duced this sulphuretted hydrogen, The climate of Bahia is not op which, combining with the oxygen pressive to a visitor ; but it must be of the paint, formed sulphate of lead? tiresome to a resident to have the The wind being no longer aft, this thermometer all the year round from odour was blown into the stern ca. 750 to 85° Winter rains induce the bins for the rest of the voyage, and lower degree, and the higher is als rendered the ship more disagreeable ways relieved by a sea-breeze. in the trade-winds, than in rounding · The oranges of Bahia are particu- Cape Horn. Scouring was useless ; larly fine. When the king of Portu- the black-lead was soon afterwards gal' lived at Rio de Janeiro he would reproduced, and without going so eat no other. They are seedless in far as to feel a stain (as Burke says) the main core. The seeds are in a like a wound, it is not to be conceiva little perfect sub-orange at the top of ed by the ladies and gentlemen of the other, which gives the fruit some England, who live at home in ease, what of a pear-shape, with the seed- how distressing is the constant sense chamber divisions indicated in the of uncleanness on board of ship. I rind of this little top-orange. The am told that this stench and these ant is the great enemy of this fruita stains are the consequences of many tree. Its armies will strip an orange, cargoes, particularly of sugar; and tree in a night
yet masters of ships (from pure in,
difference to every thing but navia Shake down its mellow hangings, nay its gation) take no measures to prevent leaves,
them, either by the use of unpainted And leave it bare to weather.
cabin-linings, or by ventilating the
holds. He that cannot eat and drink I saw some of these little animals any thing, drest in any way, at any walking away with large bits of time, out of any thing, touched by any leaves. No remedy of girthing the thing, mixed with any thing,--and trunk with any thing, however poi. this under the sight of any dirt, the sonous or offensive, has yet been disa smell of any stench, the sound of any covered. They surmount all diffia discord, and the feeling of any moculties. Fire at night is the only tion, should not go to sea. I write thing that drives them away for a this while I am at sea, because the time.
touch of shore is apt to put to flight The only manufactory at Bahia is the memory of all these miseries, howof red pottery. The various water- ever keen at the time, and I am devessels are peculiarly adapted to this termined to have my revenge of shipwarm climate, from the porousness board; and to tell landsmen what of the clay of which they are made; truth will utter and what sailors will and the excellent water that is pour- not. I said I would write a pamphlet ed from them, after they have been against the sea. I am in a mood to placed in the sea or land breeze, chide the tempest, to rebuke the drinks deliciously cool,
waves, like King Caņute. We sailed from Bahia in the after- outward ship was heavy and uneasy, noon of the 26th of April with a my homeward was heavy, uneasy, south-east wind and showery weather; wet and filthy. and so the wind and weather continued, On the day after we left Babia, and prevented us from clearing the the French merehant-ship, which land till the 3d day of May. In ada sailed with us, and the Duteh one, dition to this foulness of wind, we which left the harbour the day benow found a foul ship; for the vessel fore, were close in sight; and on the having been some days stagnant in next day a brig was near us, supharbour, an infernal sulphuric stench posed to be an English merchant came from the bold, and from the vessel that sailed from Bahia on bilge-water, which, attracting the Sunday. On the following morning, lead from the salt-water-stained the French ship was close in sight
ágain ; and on the next day, a vessel mometer standing from 750 to $37 was still visible.
both night and day. From this time On the 5th of May, we saw a Por- the heat fell to a common Engligle tuguese Man-of-war, not a ship, but summer temperaturę. a species of zoophyta of the medusa On the next day, which was rainy kind; and in the evening we passed and cloudy, instead of dolphins, the high pyramidical peak of the isi stormy peterels were very numerous land of. Fernando Norhonha, distant under the stem of the ship; and on six or seven leagues, to the eastwards the following day came a strong rising like a spire.
breeze and a high sea, producing On the 8th we crossed the line in heavy rolling. We passed a schooner, the longitude of 32° 30', and were showing English colours. The day becalmed for only two days, with rain after, the sea was still high and the for only one, after which we got the wind fresh at north-west, with heavy north-east trade-wind till the ed of rain in the evening, which latter conJune, when we were in the latitude tinued the next day. With the exof 35° 55', and in the Florida Gulf çeption of one day we had now a fair Stream. On the 13th of May the wind, till we entered the English wind was light with heavy rain all Channel, On the 4th of June we day; and on the next evening, which passed a brig, which afterwards overwas showery, we saw a lunar rain took and spoke us; namely, the bow, a phenomenon which I have Nocton Packet from the island of witnessed only once before, and St. Thomas to England, On the which many people die of old age next day, the wind was stronger and without seeing
the ship more uneasy and wet than On the 22d, being in latitude 20°
were out of the Gulf 7', the sun was vertical at noon, yet Stream, and on the following mornthe thermometer was only 75o. This ing we passed the islands of Flores is a wonderful sight, and yet thou- and Corvo, the two north-westernsands, who visit the tropics, notice it most of the Azores, or Western Isnot. Shine, but no sun, till you look lands. Flores looked verdant; but over head ; and, what is more awful, Corvo is little better than a lofty like the goblin in the Lay of the Last rock: both however, are inhabited. Minstrel,
We were now drawing near home Your form no darkling shadow throws
and the converging of outward and
homeward bound vessels. On the 9th Upon the vessel's deck.
day of June we passed a ship, and on A vertical sun is as much a miracle the next day met a large one; on the to an extra-tropical inhabitant, as 13th we met a brig, and saw two or snow and ice to an inter-tropical one. three other small vessels in the
On the next day, at evening, we chops of the Channel. The next day, met a brig; and much sea-weed was a vessel was in sight, and the sea was seen all day, supposed to have drifted green, the ship being in soundings. from the Gulf Stream. It seemed We were out of blue water. The to be all of one sort, namely the following morning several vessels fucus natans.
were in sight: in the afternoon we On the 24th of May, we crossed saw the land, Start Point, in Old the tropic of Cancer; and on that England; and late at night, we disand the three following days the sea- cerned the Portland Lights. On the weed was very abundant. When next day, we were off Portland and gathered, small crabs and shrimps St. Alban's Heads; but the wind came up among it.
was foul ; a mortifying circumstance On the 30th of May, the wind be with home in sight. An Isle of ing light and the weather fair, we Wight pilot came on board; and we saw half a dozen dolphins, with their had that island in sight all day. The ultramarine blue bodies, and their next morning the weather was wet, orange-green tails; but they would and the land out of sight. At noon not bite a bait. We also passed a of the 17th of June we tacked tobrig.
wards England, and made St. Cathe. Eight weeks have now elapsed, rine's on the Isle of Wight at three during which we have had the ther- o'clock p. m.; when the wind con