The Undersea World of Jacque Carter 't was early in the morning when I entered Boca Chica, a meandering channel of mangrove swamp in Belize's Hol Chan Marine Reserve. The muddy banks were washed out in many places, forming sheer walls, overhangs, and caves. Shafts of sunlight filtered through the water to reveal encrusting algae, sponges, anemones, tunicates, and oysters, all firmly attached to whatever solid object was available. Schools of tiny sardines and silversides sought shel-ter amid the tangled web of mangrove prop roots. Mangrove snappers, their canines exposed, cruised the deeper water of the channel in search of prey. A pair of gray angelfish moved with deliberate grace among skirting schools of planktonfeeding herring, while scrappy bonefish rooted for food in the soft bottom of the tidal flats. I reached out my hand in vain to touch a pair of checkered pufferfish as they floated like tiny balloons above the bottom. Later that afternoon I snorkeled nearby in the quiet waters of the back-reef lagoon. Below me, schools of silvery mojarras, tails twitching, probed the bottom in search of small worms, crabs, and shrimp. Turtle grass sprouted in thick clumps, its root system helping to stabilize the soft sands. A pipefish stood on its nose in an effort to conceal itself among waving blades of sea grass. The wake from my fins startled a yellow stingray partially buried in the sandy bottom. Just moments after the stingray scurried away, two giant manta rays, each at least 15 feet across, passed like ships before me. As I turned to watch them, one of these so-called devil fish leaped into the air, somersaulted, and fell back with a resounding splash! My favorite place for fish-watching is the Hol Chan cut, a natural break in the reef crest that connects the quiet waters of the back-reef lagoon with the turbulence of the fore reef. The sea bottom at the entrance capture microscopic animals and plants floating by. Many of the fishes active during the day seek refuge at night in the nooks and crannies of the reef. My flashlight beam caught several parrotfish as they snoozed like mummies in freshly spun mucous cocoons. Meanwhile, dark red squirrelfishes and big-eved copper sweepers emerged from their daytime lairs, and moray and conger eels, which had kept their distance earlier in the day, slithered about coral cracks and crevices looking for their evening meals. For the experienced diver, I recommend using scuba gear to explore the deeper waters beyond the barrier reef. I have spent a great deal of time in this part of the reserve study A diver's delight. anemone), as well On one of my many visits to the The Hol Chan cut is even more 62 WILDLIFE CONSERVATION BELIZE IS ESTABLISHING SMALL MARINE PARKS, INDIVIDUAL GEMS THAT WILL BE STRUNG TOGETHER ALONG THE BARRIER REEF IN A NECKLACE OF PROTECTED HABITATS. 64 WILDLIFE CONSERVATION as an overabundance of nutrients from fertilizers. Scientists still have only limited understanding of the longterm effects these substances have on reef environments. We do know that coral reef communities are highly complex and interconnected; subtle changes can affect the structure of the entire community and result in a decrease in overall coral growth. In response to the Belizeans' mounting awareness of environmental issues, several laws have been enacted to deal with natural resource management. Most were designated for terrestrial areas, however, and do not adequately protect marine resources. Further complicating matters is the issue of overlap in the administration of marine and terrestrial resources. When it is unclear who has ultimate control and responsibility, it sometimes means that nothing gets done. In addition, it is often difficult for ecologists to identify the boundaries of marine habitats. In theory, they strive to delineate reserve boundaries so that a balance between the rates of species loss and replacement can be naturally maintained. This equilibrium is best achieved in large areas, because portions of reef damaged by natural and human activities can be replenished from undamaged parts of the same reef. Yet, when practice meets theory, it is not always possible-for financial, political, or logistical reasons-to protect big tracts of reef. Therefore, in Belize, we are trying to establish small parks, individual gems along the barrier reef that will eventually be strung together in a necklace of protected marine habitats representing as much of the reef as possible. This past August, a coastal-zone management workshop was held in San Pedro, on Ambergris Caye, home of the Hol Chan reserve. Fifty-five experts from nine countries met to analyze the information gathered on Belize's coastal resources and to discuss current and future management efforts including the role of the international community. Recommendations for action were developed and submitted to the Belize government for review and approval. Meanwhile, it is of utmost urgency that Belize establish an agency to de velop and administer its growing list of national parks. Wildlife Conservation International has offered to help the government set up a Belize Barrier Reef Authority, modeled after the Australian agency that oversees similar marine reserves in that country. The main goal of the proposed BBRA would be to provide for the protection, sustainable use, and recreational enjoyment of the reef and waters through public zoning and careful management of all marine resources. Experience has shown that when reserves are established on the basis of esthetic qualities, species diversity, and other scientific criteria, but without regard for traditional human usage, they stand little chance of success. Zoning can take into account and separate the conflicting activities. Thus, specific areas of the reef would be designated as suitable for specific activities, such as commercial fishing or scientific research, and some regions would be strictly protected from any use so that genetic diversity and essential ecological processes can be maintained. The proposed reef authority would also be responsible for implementing a comprehensive research program in order to better understand the ecological processes of the reef and to monitor the changes brought on by man's activities. Belize's barrier reef ecosystem-its reefs, cays, grass flats, and mangrove swamps-is truly a global treasure, and the commitment of the Belizean people to protect it is strong. Nevertheless, success ultimately depends on the country's ability to make a longterm moral and financial commitment to its fledgling conservation programs. Belize is one of the few places on Earth where vast resources remain underdeveloped and relatively undisturbed, where people are aware of the dangers of development, and where the government wants to avoid environmental mistakes. For Belizeans, sustainable use of Hol Chan and other natural marine resources is not only a rational response to their necessary economic development, but an ethical imperative as well, expressed best in the belief that we have not inherited the Earth from our parents, but borrowed it from our children. O 66 WILDLIFE CONSERVATION BECOME A BARRIER REEF BOOSTER Conservation ation of Belize's barrier reef-recently named by marine experts one of the seven underwater wonders of the world-is vital because of its pristine condition and extreme vulnerability to human activities. Belize is taking steps to ensure the reef's survival, but the country is poor and certainly not alone in its responsibilities to the ecosystem. The reef belongs to us all and to no one. We should share in the efforts to preserve it. There are two ways you can help: (1) Travel. Revenue from tourism is an investment in wildlife. (2) Write letters of support to Belize officials and conservationists. Travel For years, the Belize reef has been the secret destination of divers and fishermen. Even today, the region is relatively undiscovered. There are a number of ways to see the reef: Charter sailboats, glass-bottomed boats, and professional dive boats make daily excursions from some of the more than 200 offshore cays. You can bring your own snorkeling or diving gear or rent it there. Ambergris Caye is the largest of the resort islands, with a variety of tourist accommodations and regular flights from Belize City. The main town of San Pedro, near the southern tip of the 25-mile-long island, is laid back, with sun-faded pastel houses, thatched-roof cabanas, sociable bars, fishing smacks anchored in the lagoon, and friendly people. Bare feet are the rule wherever you go on Ambergris. The rainy season runs from May through October, the rest of the year is relatively dry, with especially delightful weather during the winter holidays. The best diving is in late spring, when underwater visibility often exceeds 100 feet. Water temperature ranges from a winter low of 73° F to a summer high in the mid-80s. The air temperature is balmy year-round. Belize is directly accessible from Miami, Houston, and New Orleans. A number of travel agencies can help you arrange flights and tours; among them: International Expeditions, 1776 Independence Court, Birmingham, AL 35216, 800/ 633-4734; Ocean Connection, 16728 El Camino Real, Houston, TX 77062, 800/331-2458; Oceanic Society Expeditions, Fort Mason Center, Building E, San Francisco, |